The fashion pendulum swings again and the slip dress – a little bit sexy, a little bit rebellious, the absolute antithesis of the demure prairie dresses that boomed in popularity thanks to Batsheva and Laura Ashley – is back. Essentially lingerie disguised as everyday wear, the '90s staple, all curve-skimming liquid satin, feels like two fingers up to a femininity defined by chintzy florals and ankle-grazing hemlines.
With the likes of Bottega Veneta and The Row keeping the minimalist revival alive and kicking, it’s no surprise that the simple strappy midi is back on the agenda. From Winona Ryder to Sofia Coppola, the most stylish women of the '90s frequently donned the nightwear-inspired piece, the beauty of which lies in its versatility.
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Aiming to channel an off-duty Naomi Campbell in nothing but a sheer slip and naked sandals? What about the queen of grunge, Courtney Love attending the 1995 Oscars in a high-shine slip with tongue-in-cheek tiara and a slick of wine-coloured lipstick? If you're after a more polished look, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy is your inspiration; the icon of understated cool would sling a double-breasted coat or blazer over her slip, adding a preppy Alice band and knee-high boots for extra Upper West Side appeal. The allure of the slip dress is eternal and, paired with chunky Dr. Martens or subtle mules, a battered leather jacket or a pearlescent beaded bag, it can say whatever you want it to.
Now, one label has recognised the perennial magic of the slip. Founded in 2019 by ex-buyer at Alex Eagle, Olivia Pope, Bias makes just one style of dress. The brand had been a long time coming for Pope: "A slip dress has always been a wardrobe staple for me but also so many of my friends," Pope explains. "I own around 20 slip dresses, so designing the product was easy as I instantly knew which elements I loved when it came to the dress and which could be improved on."
Identifying a gap in the market for high quality but affordable iterations of the classic style, Pope launched their brand to service both themselves and every woman they know. "The slips you find on the high street are often made from polyester so the fit can be awful and yet the designer silk options often retail for £300 plus," Pope tells Refinery29. "I wanted to produce a beautiful dress in delicious silk that lasts but also at an accessible price point; our dresses are designed to be worn and to have fun in rather than to be kept in a wardrobe and only brought out for special occasions."
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Priced at £195, the dress is currently available in nine colourways, from wedding-guest-appropriate navy or blush to olive green, red and white polka dot and fruity floral. Each piece is made from 100% silk and comes in a matching silk dust bag, names are pitch-perfect – Dark & Stormy, The Comeback, The Mini Break – and sizes range from XS to XL. What's more, each style is part of a small run, a decision born out of that frustration we’ve all felt at a wedding or birthday party. "The initial concept for Bias really started a couple of summers ago after a friend’s wedding where four girls showed up wearing the same dress made by what I thought was a relatively niche brand at the time," Pope says.
"It struck me that so often brands see a colourway or a print becoming a success and look to instantly restock. For me the appeal of buying into a smaller niche brand is that it feels more unique and special; through our limited-edition runs I hope to resolve this issue and ensure our customers retain the feeling of owning something special. I think that it’s wonderful to know that a brand will keep the same shape and style that you love and that suits you and reinterpret it in fresh colourways to slot into and refresh your wardrobe seamlessly."
The slip's versatility means it can act as a blank canvas for other elements: enter a collaboration with Queen Elizabeth II Award-winning jewellery label, Alighieri. Founder Rosh Mahtani is a longtime friend of Pope, and earlier this year the labels came together to create three limited-edition slip dresses embellished with the sumptuous gold, silver and pearls for which Alighieri is known and loved. Pope tells us there will be more partnerships coming this year but for now, how does she style her slip? "This winter I've been wearing my dress with chunky knits, polo necks and blazers. Come the summer it will be with a T-shirt and trainers in the city and with sandals or barefoot while on holiday."
Bring on the sunshine. Now, which colour should we go for first?