What's new in hair colour right now? We're so glad you asked. There's a whole spectrum of shade options, which can make planning for your next appointment overwhelming. To help, we asked some of our favourite colourists to break down the exact tones and styles they're excited about for spring and straight on into summer — like a New York City-born blonde you can replicate from anywhere on the map, or a budding TikTok trend called “Gemini hair.”
Whether you're heading in for a bi-annual refresh on your highlights or looking for something completely fresh, we've got your inspiration ahead.
Ashley Avignone's hair colour is a "rooty" bright tone that her colourist, Jenna Perry, is coining "NYC blonde," because her cosmopolitan clientele is requesting it en masse in preparation for warmer weather. "A lot of people have grown out their colour in the past few years, but with summer coming, I feel like the darker era is on its way out," says Perry, one of the city’s most in-demand colourists and founder of her eponymous salon. (Of course, that’s not to say dark hair is out of style, just that Perry is seeing more demand for brighter tones at the moment.)
Here's how to ask for it: "I suggest asking for a classic balayage," says Perry. "The hand-painted technique will be less damaging to your hair and the soft grow-out will last all of the warmer months."
TikTok loves astrology and a personalised hair trend, which brings us Gemini hair. The name comes from the dual facets of the Gemini twins, the symbol of the sign. The hair colour takes your base tone and adds a contrasting colour over top, making it dual-toned. Alex Brownsell, hairstylist and co-founder of BLEACH London, says Gemini hair is a natural trend evolution from the "bleached bit" that cycles in and out of popularity. "I think we will continue to see multi-hued hair take off," says Brownsell. "This rising trend mixes natural shades with bright greens, blues, purples, and pinks. In the salon we’ve noticed clients toying with the idea of a fun colour, but not wanting to commit to a full head."
Here's how to ask for it: This trend is not prescriptive — it depends on what your base colour is and how bold you want your two-toned contrast. "There are endless ways to place and mix colours," says Brownsell. "If you use a semi-permanent dye, the colour will fade out, allowing you to change up your look. I also love how this colour looks when styled, sectioned, braided, or in a ponytail to show flashes of colour as the hair moves." Look to this colour on journalist Twiggy Jalloh.
Maryann Hennings, a film and TV hairdresser who most recently worked as the lead stylist on Daisy Jones & The Six, tells us that well-placed highlights can make fine hair appear fuller. If your base tone is brown, you might ask for a "dimensional" brunette. "Highlights give hair texture, which is great," says Hennings. Colourist Justin Anderson agrees: "I love a colour you can live in, and it still looks expensive weeks after the salon," he says. "I've noticed a big trend with variations of chocolate and caramel hues to add a bit of depth, in a very natural, yet noticeable way."
Here's how to ask for it: You’re looking for a colourist who specialises in fine, hand-painted highlights — and your job is to come prepared with plenty of visuals. "The number one thing you should do is bring in lots of example photos to your colourist," says Anderson. "This will better explain your vision so your colourists can bring it to life." One of our favourite examples, shown above, comes from Angela Soto, a NYC-based colourist and the owner of Baja Studio.
A more consistent colour trend is copper. We've seen copper spike in popularity among celebrities, and the spillover into salons has yet to slow down for one simple reason: Tones of red are just so eye-catching. "I was recently in the salon and a girl [was coloured] the most beautiful dark copper I've ever seen," says Anderson. "I'm not kidding — everyone in the salon was absolutely obsessed with her colour. It's a very high-maintenance colour but wow, is it stunning."
Here's how to ask for it: Make sure you know the exact shade of red you're going for: Copper will be darker than, say, strawberry. Photos are once again essential here so that your stylist can let you know how realistic the tone is for your natural colour. Look to this hue on Whitney Hayat posted to Instagram by award winning afro and textured hair specialist, Michelle Thompson.
Another pro tip: gloss your copper regularly. "If you are looking to give your colour a bit of boost in overall vibrancy, a gloss will bring your colour back to life between salon visits," says Justin. He recommends dpHUE Gloss+ in Copper, £32, of which he’s the co-founder.
No Colour, Just Gloss
Speaking of hair gloss, celebrity colourist Rita Hazan says that her favourite colour trend takes a minimalist approach. "I’ve been loving the ‘no-colour colour’ look lately," she says, describing it as "a completely low-maintenance [look] for those who are colouring their hair to look natural, healthy, and shiny."
Here's how to ask for it: Just ask your stylist for a hair gloss. Hazan says that the tone should be one shade lighter or darker than your natural base shade — she prefers darker for the added shine. As seen in the above photo of a dark brown gloss perfected by Soto, the tone appears natural and shiny, but the subtle enhancements come from a combo of colour gloss and a touch of hairline keratin.
Another blonde-adjacent tone colourists are loving recently: camel beige. "This neutral tone is inspired by Farrah Fawcett’s iconic blonde viewed through the lens of '70s aesthetic filters," says Cherise Wilson, a colourist at Marie Robinson Salon. She cites The White Lotus star Meghann Fahy (shot here by Elias Tahan) as a prime example.
Here's how to ask for it: Ask for a shade of beige blonde that's not over-lifted or too pale that incorporates a balance of golden and purple tones while keeping some of the natural warmth in your hair, says Wilson.The key word is "neutral" so that you don't lean too warm or too cool.
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