The PFW roster was an improvement on Balenciaga's past shows, with four of the 47 outfits on Black models. But creative director Demna Gvasalia is facing another controversy. Casting director James Scully recently claimed the models were working under inhumane conditions. "On top of that, I have heard from several agents, some of whom are Black, that they have received mandate from Lanvin that they do not want to be presented with women of color," he wrote on Instagram.
Models themselves have noticed the lack of diversity on runways. "I really hope that casting directors and stylists don't think, We already have one Asian girl, two Black girls...it's enough, we don't need more," Estelle Chen told Refinery29 last year. "People shouldn't still think this way."
West African model Deddeh Howard echoed this sentiment in an Instagram shot of herself re-creating a photo that featured a white model. "What do you mean you already have two to five black models that looks like me?" she wrote. "Did you say the same thing to the 50-100 white models you have?"