Welcome to About My Business, Unbothered’s brand new career column. For years, I was getting tons of DMs like “How can I negotiate my salary?,”  “I don’t know how to discuss mental health with my boss,” and “Why does this white woman insist on asking me everything just because I’m Black?” This is a space to answer your questions while spilling my guts, tips and tea. 

For this instalment of About My Business, we’re discussing a topic that really just can’t wait: How to get a job during this pandemic. More specifically, how to get hired as a postgraduate. 

If you’ve been following me for a while, then you know my career started when I was a wee baby intern. I was one of those intern freaks. You know, the girl who never took her summers off because she wanted experience? The girl who, at one point, had three internships in one semester. Now, before you run for the hills, I’m not going to turn you into a serial intern! In this segment, I want to give other Black girls advice on how to secure a job at the place they’re interning if they’re hiring right now. I want Black girls to feel confident and ready for this cut-throat and complicated market, I called in some reinforcements. 

My girl Nana Agyemang was just as much of an intern hoe as I was. In fact, we were both ELLE.com interns when we were in college. We worked together at R29 — she was actually one of the early voices in the room when we started planning what Unbothered could be. Since then, she’s grown @thecut’s Instagram to one million followers and founded her own media company for women of colour called EveryStylishGirl. They provide resources, advice, and host Sip N’ Slay, a career conference for badass women of colour who want to break into fashion and media. After speaking at one last year, I was so moved by all the younger versions of myself I saw in the audience. That’s one of the reasons why I want to write this. I want to see more Black women in media, period. So grab your notebooks. Nana and I are about to drop the gems on how to get there.

How can you organize your resume if you don’t have much experience?

Nana Agyemang: “I would suggest thinking back to your glory days for your resume. When were you putting in the most work? Was it at a volunteer centre? Were you assisting for some time? Or are you working on your own company now? Don’t just think because you aren’t getting paid for it you shouldn’t be included. I highly suggest highlighting extracurricular activities. For example, I was an editor-in-chief at George Washington University’s campus magazine and with that title and responsibility I managed to get a job at BBC News. Remember it’s not merely about the title, it’s oftentimes about the skills you built while working that role. So don’t sleep on your past volunteer work; instead, amplify it and make sure to include data in all your resume points.”

Laurise McMillian: “Use the job description to highlight transferable skills! You’d be surprised at the crossover skills between a role like a sales clerk at Target and a community manager at Gucci.”

What are your resume Dos and Hell Nos?

NA: “A major resume ‘Do’ that I tell all my interns and mentees about is to include quantitative data. This means every line in your resume under your role should include numeral and measurable points. For example, if you were a social media assistant, list how many followers the account had that you managed, talk about the percentage of growth you had on that page, and include your reach and insights. It is vital for companies to see that you had a direct impact at your previous company. Numbers carry weight. Remember that.

In terms of a ‘Don’t,’ I suggest not having a CV longer than one page. If it’s longer, that means you aren’t organized. It takes critical reviewing to fit everything on one page and I respect applicants who can do that. Also, it is okay to have more than one CV. I highly recommend you make different resumes based on your application to different industries. If you are applying to be a writer versus a painter you might want to show various experiences and that might call for another slightly updated CV.”

LM: “I think photos on resumes are unnecessary, but as a designer, I don’t mind an illustration. I think as a POC, an illustration could be beneficial. We know all these companies are trying to be ‘diverse’ now. Use that.”

How do you network at a conference like Sip N’ Slay? How do I get a stranger’s email?

NA: “Always shoot your shot. I recommend that you ask them there and then in our live event chat! Be direct and be quick. The worst that could happen is that they say no, but the chances are not that likely because they are attending a networking event, therefore, they know there will be some networking.”

LM: “If you can’t get them during the event, respectfully slide in their DMs afterward to let them know how much you enjoyed their talk. LinkedIn is always a safe platform.”

What’s the secret to a meaningful cover letter?

NA: “Always include the company’s mission statement at the end of your cover letter. This shows you’ve done your research and you’re passionate about their goals and business plan. Every time I’ve included a company’s mission statement I’ve booked an interview with them. It’s a simple act with a huge influence.”

LM: “Going back to the first question. If you don’t have a ton of direct experience, use the cover letter to explain why hiring you still makes sense. Are you passionate? Were there parts of the job that were too wordy for the resume? Use the cover letter to plead your case and gas yourself up one last time.”

When you were an intern, how did you create relationships with your editors? How did you maintain those relationships after you left?

NA: “Building relationships with editors doesn’t happen overnight. Because quite frankly they’re just very busy. Personally, I found that editors gravitated towards me the most when I did great work. I stayed on top of my work, I pitched ideas regularly and I volunteered to do the grunt work when other interns didn’t. Deadlines are important to editors. If you promise to get a piece out on time, try your best to stick to that time. It shows that you’re reliable and they can depend on you. Once they start depending on you, that’s a sign they are growing closer to you and an organic relationship can build from there. At the end of my internships I left all my editors with a gift and emailed them a very sweet thank you note. I followed them all on Instagram at the same time and most of them followed back, a majority being the ones that I went over-the-top to impress.”

LM: “I’m with Nana. Every editor needs a go-to girl. Be that! Also, ask for one-on-one meetings during and after your internship. Ask people who weren’t even in your department. Move around. Also check in with past editors. If they wrote something bomb or got an award, email them and tell them that s&*! spoke to you. Your bosses are human — flattery helps!”

Every Stylish Girl Business is a new arm of ESG that’s designed to get WOC jobs and fair pay. What kind of jobs can students find listed here?

NA: “ESGB’s career advancement directory is for all things digital and creative. If you are looking for a job in media, fashion or beauty, you want to apply to be a part of this career directory. You might also want to follow our Instagram, EveryStylishGirlBiz, where we post job opportunities weekly from top-tier media companies.”

LM: “Truthfully, it’s my favourite Instagram account right now. And I ain’t even looking for a job.”

What’s the best way to follow up on a job application without looking dumb?

NA: “I am going to share a secret that might surprise you all, but my mentor passed it onto me and I am going to pass it to you. The secret is you should pick up the phone and call for your follow up or send a letter. You have to think differently when you are following up for a job. Everyone does an email follow up but who actually thinks outside of the box to send a letter or call?”

LM: “I think a lot of people think ‘the industry’ is all about this too cool for school attitude. Be humble. Be enthusiastic. Show them how much you want it. Don’t be begging, now, but tell them just how much you see yourself there and how much you know that you can do for the company. BDE, baby! Good luck. I know y’all got this.”

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A Letter From Unbothered On Black History Month

“We just need a moment of silence this Black History Month.” 

My sister recently texted me this after a conversation about cheap Amazon hair care finds and before a play-by-play of Lori Harvey’s latest vacation. I’m not sure when Black History Month morphed from a celebration to a memorial, but as the calendar flipped to February, my sister and I (and many other Black folks, I’ve since confirmed) shared the same anxiety-tinged enthusiasm. Instead of being excited for a month intended to uplift our stories, leaders, and culture, we found ourselves sitting with an apprehension for the days to come. Though being Black has always been my reality — one that I celebrate every single day — in February, this February, there seems to be a particular pressure to be BLACK.  

It’s an odd thing to be told to celebrate on cue, and for just 28 days. We’re meant to put on our Easter Sunday best and clap for a procession of historical Black figures, to yell about our struggles, to push forward despite our exhaustion and anger in order to take advantage of the one time a year the rest of the nation is paying attention. If this is reminding you of the frenetic energy of last summer, you’re not alone. Here at Unbothered, my colleagues and I have talked on the Go Off Sis podcast about feeling like Black people have to fast forward through our trauma, so that we can stand up and shout our pain when people are finally listening. The ineffable anxiety of trying to explain our personhood is something we are all too familiar with and a burden we’re all learning how to set down after an unrelenting year.

I have a tense relationship with Black History Month, and that’s because, for much of my life, I felt like it was forced on us rather than being for us. It’s exhausting to be made aware of what Black people don’t have and were never meant to have in this country. And growing up as one of the only Black girls in my predominantly white high school and later at Yale, it seemed transgressive, or even a betrayal of my community, to reject Black History Month. But, more than anything, the month rang false, felt tiresome, and was just not enough. I felt like a spectator in my own story as Black History Month was treated by my peers like a chapter in a 300-page textbook that gets forgotten as soon as the final exam is over. It felt like when you get in trouble at school and your parents are called to the principal’s office, while you sit waiting on the other side of the door — nervous to be called on, ready to defend yourself, and just wishing it was all over so you could go back to lying on the couch and watching Moesha. 

These feelings are old, itchy and frankly, all too familiar. The highlight reel of our history could be played in reverse and we’d still recognize its sting. For Black people, 2020 was maddeningly and infuriatingly much of the same. In the midst of a global pandemic, our businesses were closing, our families were ravaged by a virus that was compounded by our lack of access to healthcare, and our community was hurting. Then, George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, and countless other names of Black people who were taken too soon dominated our timelines. The year felt like a soul-crushing re-opening of wounds we’ve never healed from. Yes, we now have VP Kamala Harris, the first Black and South Asian woman to serve in this position, but if anything, this month should serve as a teachable moment for us to acknowledge the complicated history of being the first Black anything, and the perils of hanging a nation’s hopes on one magical Black woman, even if she is absolutely brilliant. 

Black History Month 2021 has the curiously heavy responsibility of setting an example in this new reality, while also reminding us that our own realities haven’t really changed. Maternal mortality is still three times higher for Black women than it is for white women. Black people are still up to ten times more likely to be arrested for minor crimes like marijuana possession. A young Black boy can’t ride an elevator or hold his iPhone without being violated.

At Unbothered, we tell these stories and challenge their truths, because we must. But, the book doesn’t end there. Our goal is to make every Black girl feel like royalty today, not tomorrow, not 50 years from now. And this Black History Month, we’re writing our history now as the victors, not the victims.

Over and over, it was Black people — Black women in particular— who moved the wheel of history in real time. It was brilliant Black women whose joy, perseverance, and determination to be seen couldn’t be contained. Women like Stacey Abrams, Amanda Gorman, Aurora James, Megan Thee Stallion, Dr. Kizzmekia Corbett, Rosalind Brewer, and more whose spirits moved us to action. To vote. To buy Black. To believe. To lead. To heal. 

So do the Black women we know and cheer for, hype up on Instagram, and tweet about daily. Because, quite simply, we are them. 

Instead of learning about ourselves through the removed lens of the Black history thrust upon us, let’s commit to meeting, challenging, and unlearning our past this month. Let’s recognize that we can celebrate our progress while still remaining resolute in our cry for personhood. Let’s share our stories, not as heroes, but as humans, as whole. 

This Black History Month, we’re giving wings to our roots and weaving together a new tapestry. We’re unlearning trauma’s chokehold on our narrative, and the idea that Black History Month can’t be for us, for me, for my sister, or for you. Unlearning also means re-educating ourselves on the things our history books didn’t teach us: the brilliance of enclaves like Black Wall Street in Tulsa, Oklahoma, the unburdened joy of Black roller skate culture, the New Black Renaissance of culture happening right before our eyes, and the complicated history of hearing Black melodies and seeing our dances on mainstream white stages. We’re going to delve into all of that this month. 

This Black History Month, we’re celebrating, not because a calendar is telling us to, but because our community compels us to. And if that means ignoring the entire thing and just doing us, so be it. Because if nothing else this month, we’re going to be our Blackest selves — just like we are every day.

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UPDATE: Ottawa is clamping down on Canadian vacationers. As of Jan. 31 until April 30, Air Canada, Air Transat, Sunwing, and WestJet are suspending flights to the Caribbean and Mexico. Prime Minister Justin Trudeau announced the new restrictions last Friday as fears about new and extra-contagious strains grow. “With the challenges we currently face with COVID-19, both here at home and abroad, we all agree that now is just not the time to be flying,” he said.

Under the new rules, which could come into effect as early as Feb. 4, said Transport Minister Omar Alghabra in a CBC interview, people arriving in Canada will have to quarantine in a hotel (paying their own way) for three days pending the results of a COVID test. If they are positive, they have to isolate in a designated government facility, reports CTV. Those with negative results can quarantine at home.

Original story follows.

On Friday, Justin Trudeau implored Canadians to cancel all non-essential travel plans and, yeah, that includes any upcoming escapes filed under self-care and/or well-deserved mental health break. The PM’s latest plea comes after news that hundreds of thousands of us — including a whole bunch of double-talking politicos — have been opting for fun in the sun over a pandemic in the polar vortex.

And look, we get it. It’s freezing and dark before lunch, the vaccine is on hold, and after eleven freaking months of this crap, “pandemic fatigue” feels like the world’s biggest understatement. But that doesn’t change the fact that we are in full-blown crisis mode, and now is not the time for pulling a Kim Kardashian (no matter how badly you want to “pretend things are normal”).

With that in mind, here’s everything you need to know about (why you definitely shouldn’t) travel at the moment, including the potentially stricter rules coming soon from Trudeau, and why — if you do decide to join the ranks of the rule flouters — you may not be able to get back home. 

I get that I’m not supposed to travel, but am I allowed to?

Technically, there is no rule in place that bans Canadians from adding new stamps to their passports, but there is a federal advisory against non-essential travel. It’s the same advisory that has been in effect since early days (March 2020), though lately the messaging is getting stronger. “Let’s be clear: this is not the time for a vacation abroad,” Trudeau told Canadians over the December holidays, just last week adding, “cancel your trip.” 

The PM has returned to mad dad mode for good reason: ICYMI, Canada is not doing so hot, pandemic-wise. A recent slew of enhanced provincial lockdown and curfew restrictions across the country are based on the fact that our numbers are high and our hospitals are full. Not just that, you’ve probably heard something about new and extra-contagious strains in other countries including the UK and Brazil. So basically, you weren’t supposed to travel internationally before, whereas now you’re really, really, realllllllllllllly not supposed to travel.

Then why do I keep seeing vacation selfies on my Instagram feed?

Because the people you follow are over-privileged, self-involved idiots? Kidding! (Sort of.) And honestly — let she among us who has not participated in any kind of COVID restriction infraction cast the first coconuts. There are a lot of reasons why booking a vacay may not have seemed like a totally terrible idea, the first being that many airlines and travel companies have been making crystal clear waters kind of hard to resist. Up until recently, WestJet has been promoting sunny getaways as an alternative to hunkering at home; Sunwing introduced its #SafeWithSunwing campaign last year. Air Canada hired a bunch of travel influencers to show us how safe and fun pandemic travel can be. Note: This did not go over very well on Twitter, but it goes to show that a lot of people are still not getting it. 

If the government really, really, reallllllly doesn’t want us to travel, why isn’t it banned outright? 

It’s confusing, right? And possibly soon to change. But, turns out the reason for the reticence has less to do with wishy-washy policy, and more to do with the Constitution. You know, that century and a half-old document that guarantees our ability to exit and enter our homeland freely along with a whole whack of other rights and liberties that make Canada a free and democratic society. It’s not that the Constitution can’t be overridden, it’s just that it’s a bit of a last resort thing and requires the signoff of the Supreme Court. Hence the recent tactics that fall somewhere between “we’re counting on Canadians to do the right thing,” and a full-on ban. 

What kind of tactics are we talking about?

In the first week of January the feds introduced a new restriction that requires all passengers returning to Canada to present a negative COVID test, taken within 72 hours of their departure time (and still quarantine at home for two weeks upon arrival). More than 50,000 Canadians cancelled winter travel plans following that disincentive, but if you’re still not convinced, know that stricter rules are almost certainly coming, including the possibility of mandatory quarantine hotels.

Yikes! What’s a quarantine hotel? 

It’s a hotel where returning travellers would be forced to spend two weeks after leaving the country. Apparently not enough of us are taking the current quarantine-at-home rules seriously. And for anyone thinking, okay, but another two weeks of mints-on-my-pillow doesn’t sound so bad… Guests at the Casa del Covid will be required to pay their own way. And 24-hour surveillance may kill the vacay vibes pretty quickly.

Where have Canadians been travelling? (Asking for a friend)

The most popular international destinations since the weather got cold have been pretty predictable: Jamaica, Mexico, and Hawaii, where some travellers have been allowed to skip the Aloha state’s quarantine requirement by presenting a negative test on arrival. Note that a lot of these countries have safety policies in place. (Barbados, for example, has a negative test requirement, a health declaration, and a second negative test five days later.) Hotels and resorts may have additional restrictions, like staying in your room or designated area for a pre-specified time upon arrival. 

Okay, but if I’m willing to follow their rules and quarantine when I come back, what’s the problem?

There are a few issues with this line of thinking, which goes back to the question of whether booking a trip (while it is still legally possible to do so) qualifies as butthole behaviour. These are hard times, no question, and everyone is feeling the hurt. Still, we are not all feeling it equally, and if you are in a position to escape to turquoise pastures, then chances are things could be worse. Now maybe you’re thinking, but me staying home and being miserable doesn’t help the people who have it tough, but in the case of a viral pandemic, it quite literally does. When you stay home (from your vacation), it means that someone else who can’t stay home (from their frontline job) has a slightly less significant chance of contracting COVID. And when you times that by hundreds of thousands of would-be jetsetters, it makes a difference.

There is also a pretty compelling ethical argument against people from wealthy high-caseload countries like Canada travelling to poorer countries with lower numbers. “People travelling from a COVID hotspot like Canada to islands that have low case numbers, that is just dripping with settler/colonial privilege,” says Dr. Samantha Yammine (aka, @sciencesam) a Toronto-based neuroscientist and science communicator. “There is a lot of exceptionalism around the pandemic, particularly with white people, people of means, and people who are young and think they can’t get sick.”  

What if I get tested before I travel?

For starters, false negative tests are more common than most of us realize. And even if your test is accurate, it doesn’t protect you from the customs agent speaking moistly or the woman who does not understand proper cough etiquette at baggage dropoff. How can you be sure that you are not either passing COVID onto those people or getting it from them? The answer, according to Yammine, is that you can’t. “You see influencers talking about how safe they are being within their travel pod, which is totally missing the point.” It’s why the Kardashian 40th b-day was such a problem: “Maybe Kim and her friends felt safe, but what about the staff they were exposing?” 

If being personally responsible for a COVID outbreak in a foreign country isn’t enough to have you logging off Travelzoo, consider that you could also get COVID on vacation. Which would make presenting a negative test before takeoff kind of impossible. And that new restrictions (up to, and including a closed border) could come without notice. We all want that frozen marg right now, but is it really worth it?

Okay, finnnnneeeee. I’ll wait. But how long are we talking? 

The bad news is that there is no magic date to circle on a calendar. (In case it’s not obvious at this point, March Break is a definite no-go). But that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be excited for spring. All signs point to millions of vaccine doses coming into Canada by early April, we are still on track for nationwide vaccination by September. If you want to start planning a trip, look to late fall/early winter. The temperature will start dropping again and when wanderlust kicks in, you can go forth in good conscience.

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Up until last year, I was a staunch beauty-tool skeptic. Nothing you can buy at home is as powerful as what you get in clinic, or so I reasoned; tools were just fun add-ons or cute gimmicks to pass the time.

I’ve definitely changed my tune after not being able to have a facial for a whole year. Plenty of them actually offer great benefits, and if you were serious enough about skin care to be a regular at your esthetician’s office pre-pandemic like I was, you should definitely consider adding them to your routine as a booster.

That’s not to say I endorse all of them wholesale, nor do I think anyone “needs” them, per se. The core work of skin care is done through the unsexy stuff: SPF, retinol, vitamin C, sleep, abstention from smoking, and so on. But for those of us who like to play the beauty game on a more advanced setting, why not?

One category of beauty tool I’m yet to be fully convinced by are cleansing devices. This is partly because of the lifespan some of them seem to have (RIP, Clarisonic) but also because I personally don’t think anything beats your hands, a good cleanser, and a warm flannel cloth. I’m also iffy on pore vacuums, or spot suckers, or zappers, or whatever you want to call them. You’re more likely to cause damage and inflammation by attempting to extract or pop a pimple, which means a greater likelihood that it’ll leave a scar. That scarring can take much longer to heal than the original blemish, especially if you have darker skin, which releases more melanin. Skip the endless cycle of compulsive picking and looking for something to extract and just pop a hydrocolloid acne patch — like a Starface sticker — on the sucker and let it work its magic.

However, I’ve fallen head over heels recently for two electrical tools, specifically the NuFace Microcurrent Trinity Toning Device and The Light Salon Boost LED Face Mask. My favorite facials always incorporated some element of microcurrent and LED light therapy, but I’d never tried a DIY version. Microcurrent is an energy source that stimulates the facial muscles, making your face appear more lifted and toned. The effects are noticeable but temporary. As such, I’d book in for a microcurrent facial ahead of a big event or if I’d really been feeling stressed and wrung-out, and enjoy the benefits for a few days.

For me, the NuFace doesn’t offer the same immediate lift, but after using it as instructed (every day for five minutes), my skin absolutely looks like it did after a pro treatment. My cheekbones look more sculpted, my skin feels nicely toned, and, because you can use it every day, you keep the benefits rolling on in. I’ve noticed enough of a difference in my skin to a) commit to using it for good and b) make the price tag worth it. Everyone’s different, and of course it’s not the same as Botox or a face lift, but it does make you look like you’ve really slept well for about two weeks. There’s not heaps of clinical research into microcurrent for cosmetic use, but one study out of Italy found that it did noticeably improve skin laxity, with the caveat that repeated use is necessary.

Then, LED. I have fairly sensitive skin and found that an LED boost at the end of an aggressive extraction facial always served to soothe my skin and extend the benefits of the post-treatment glow. But the machines they use are massive and bulky, so I didn’t think I’d ever be able to recreate that at home, either. However, The Light Salon has nailed it with its at-home Boost mask. Constructed from a soft, pliable plastic, the two straps make it so you can comfortably wear it while watching Netflix, scrolling Instagram, or even working on your laptop. The 10-minute blast of LED leaves my skin looking really lovely, with a brighter complexion and a supple feel. It’s thought that red LED light can help stimulate collagen production, and there is some preliminary research that looks promising.

I’m also a big fan of manual tools. Gua sha and jade rolling are a lovely addition to a spa evening at home — they feel beautifully cooling on the skin and give an uptick in circulation that leaves skin feeling plump and smooth. While they don’t mimic professional results, they’re brilliant if you’re looking for a purse-friendly, gentle introduction to tools.

Regardless of the brand, LED and microcurrent tools tend to be very pricey, and that’s down to the complexity of the tools themselves. The technology isn’t exactly NASA-level, but calibrating the right amount of intensity into a handheld tool which can safely mimic in-clinic results is tricky. I’m sure you can find off-brand options online for a slice of the price, but you simply don’t know how safe or effective they’ll be. 

If you’re looking for all-over brightness and pep without injectables and you’ve got some cash to blow, I’d highly recommend either tool — or both, if you’re feeling flush.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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If you’re anything like me and buy vintage jeans in bulk, you’ve likely found yourself with a NSFW hole on one too many occasions. (I’m referring to the dreaded under-the-butt rip, though knee rips can sometimes become an issue, too.) They look rugged and cool for the first few wears but eventually, as the rips expand, it becomes clear that, without a repair, your pair of jeans will be no more. But, after watching one too many DIY videos on TikTok, I’m convinced that I — and you, too — can handle the job of patching up the jean holes all by myself.

Thanks to designer labels like Marni, Ssōne, Ciao Lucia, Bode, and more, the patchwork trend is rising through fashion’s ranks, providing yet another reason for us to take matters into our own hands and make art out of our torn and ripped garments using patches. 

With that in mind, I asked Refinery29 designer Lily Fulop, a TikTok mending expert and the author of Wear, Repair, Repurpose: A Maker’s Guide to Mending and Upcycling Clothes, to walk us through a simple patch repair from start to finish. She used a pair of vintage 501 Levi’s of mine that had seen better days after four years of non-stop wear. Spoiler: After she was done with them, they came out looking better (and cooler) than the day I got them. 

Ahead, follow along as she shares her steps to patchworking a pair of ripped jeans. 

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Step 1: Buy Supplies

Before you start, you need to purchase some supplies. Your shopping list will include a piece of fabric for each “patch” you plan to add, embroidery floss, an embroidery needle, pins, a thimble, scissors (preferably a pair of sharp sewing scissors), and an iron. Oh, and the garment you’re planning to work with. Fulop used jeans, but a jacket, handbag, or T-shirt would work, too, with these steps. 

Step 2: Prepare the patch

Once you’ve gathered all the necessary materials, prepare the patch. “Cut a rectangle of fabric that is bigger than the hole you’re trying to cover,” Fulop advises. “It should extend at least a couple inches beyond the hole in all directions.” From there, she says to fold about ¾ of an inch of each edge of the fabric to the underside, and then iron the edges into place. Once the edges are flat, use your pins to secure the patch to the jeans (or whatever item you chose to use). “Be sure to only go through one layer of your jeans,” she says. “You don’t want to pin the leg together.” 

Step 3: Prepare the needle & thread

Cut a piece of embroidery floss so that it’s about as long as your arm. Then, thread your embroidery floss through the eye of the needle. Once it’s secure, tie a knot at the end of the floss.  

Step 4: Attach the body of the patch to the jeans

Starting from the inside of your pants and the bottom corner of your patch, bring your needle up through the patch and the front layer of denim. Next, bring the needle back down about a centimetre away from where it entered in order to create your first stitch. Continue by bringing the needle up again, about a centimetre away, and back down in a straight line. “This is called the running stitch,” Fulop explains. If you would like to see this in action, she has a video tutorial of this particular stitch on her TikTok channel Mindful Mending.

Keep going with this step until you reach the top of the patch. According to Fulop, the final stitch in the column should end inside the pants. “You’ll then move your needle over to start the next column,” she says. “A horizontal stitch connecting the [two] columns will be visible on the inside, but not the outside.” From there, repeat the process for the next column. Keep going until the entire patch is covered with stitches. (Fulop stitched 13 columns on this.)

“If you run out of thread, tie another piece onto the remaining tail on the inside of your jeans, so no one will see,” says Fulop. Once you’re finished, bring your needle to the inside of your pants and tie a knot. Trim your extra floss about an inch away from the knot.

Step 5: Secure the edges of the patch

Next, prepare your needle and thread for a new stitch (refer back to step 3!). For this step, you have two options: You can use a new piece of floss (maybe a new colour!), or recycle whatever floss was leftover from your last stitch to reduce waste. Starting at the top of the patch, pull your needle up through the inside of the jeans to the outside of the patch, about a centimeter from the edge. Then, pull it back down at the edge, going through just the denim and avoiding the patch. “Come back up in the hole you started in, and then catch your thread in the loop you created so that, when you draw your thread to the left, you don’t make any diagonal stitches,” Fulop says, noting that this is the most complicated stitch of the entire process. “The following stitches are a lot simpler!” 

If you need any further demonstration, there are plenty of great YouTube tutorials out there.

Moving from right to left, push your needle down through the patch and up at the edge (again, only through the denim), catching the loop of the thread each time. “Each stitch makes an upside-down L shape,” says Fulop. From there, continue going around all the edges until you end up back where you started. This process is called a blanket stitch. Another stitch that you can use to secure edges is a whip stitch, which Grey’s Anatomy fans (me!) might remember as one of Dr. Yang’s specialties. 

Step 6: Check the work

Look over the finished product. The above photos show what the inside and the outside of your jeans should look like once you’re all finished. “Repeat on any other holes you have for a cute, patchy look that’ll make your jeans last longer,” says Fulop. 

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On Friday, Johnson & Johnson announced its development of a single-shot COVID-19 vaccine that’s 66% effective at preventing symptomatic disease and 85% effective at protecting against severe illness. The Canadian government has signed an agreement with J&J for up to 38 million vaccines, although the rollout schedule is tbd, reports the CBC.

This is especially significant given that the initial COVID-19 vaccines, which require two shots over the course of about a month, have complicated the distribution process and left many people waiting. A one-shot vaccine could be monumental for getting more people vaccinated sooner — and vaccinated completely, too.

Despite the fact that it’s nearly 30% less effective than the Moderna and Pfizer vaccines, because of its single-shot administration and more convenient transportation and storage requirements, Mathai Mammen, M.D., Ph.D., the global head of Janssen Research & Development, calls it a “workhorse vaccine.” One of the most important things it would do is prevent as many people from ending up in the hospital and overwhelming health care workers with patients — one of the biggest problems during the pandemic. 

The single dose vaccine could also greatly benefit some of the most at-risk groups. Elderly people and disabled or chronically ill people who can’t get to health clinics more than once, incarcerated people, and unhoused people are some of many groups who could benefit from not having to wait for a second dose.

Adults with disabilities are more likely to have an underlying medical condition that puts them at increased risk. And COVID infections and deaths have been higher among disabled people, elderly people, houseless, and incarcerated people who have had fewer resources to properly prevent against disease. A one-shot vaccine would make it significantly simpler to administer to these communities who will already struggle to find the ability to get a first dose, let alone two. Increased hospital capacity will also create more access to health care for those who have been struggling with other underlying health issues during the pandemic but unable to get proper treatment. This eliminates at least one huge barrier for the most marginalized people.

“The potential to significantly reduce the burden of severe disease, by providing an effective and well-tolerated vaccine with just one immunization, is a critical component of the global public health response,” said Paul Stoffels, M.D., Vice Chairman of the Executive Committee and Chief Scientific Officer of Johnson & Johnson in a press release. “A one-shot vaccine is considered by the World Health Organization to be the best option in pandemic settings, enhancing access, distribution and compliance.”

Ultimately, the COVID-19 vaccine candidate demonstrated complete protection against COVID-related hospitalization and death within 28 days after vaccination. In addition, the vaccine also had a clear effect on COVID-19 cases that required hospitalization, ICU admission, mechanical ventilation, and extracorporeal membrane oxygenation (ECMO). There were no reported cases among trial volunteers who had received the Johnson & Johnson COVID-19 vaccine.

The trial was originally launched in September and was conducted in the United States, South Africa, and Latin America — and while it wasn’t planned this way, these trial locations were some of the first countries where the new COVID-19 variants would soon emerge. Because this vaccine has been tested since the new variants, which are more infectious and potentially more dangerous, entered the country while the Moderna and Pfizer vaccines haven’t, it could mean the Johnson & Johnson antidote might offer better protection. However, only time will tell.

Jen Psaki, the new White House Press Secretary, said in a briefing Friday morning that President Joe Biden is encouraged by the positive data released by Johnson & Johnson. Ultimately, President Biden says that “now is the time for the FDA to do its job evaluating the safety and efficacy of the vaccine.”

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I probably think about Mercury retrograde more than the average person. That’s partially because I write about astrology for Refinery29. But I also just worry about the transit. I never want to be caught unawares. Weeks ahead of certain events — my birthday, a road trip, my big moving day — I’ll quickly check to see if a retrograde is coming. So this year, I decided to get ahead of the game and look up each and every time the speedy planet will be doing its backwards dance this year, so I can fully prep myself.

Mercury is known as the Planet of Communication, and when it goes retrograde, our connections can get pretty wonky, causing confusion and glitches in technology. The reason Mercury retrograde gets so much hype, according to Narayana Montúfar, senior astrologer for Astrology.com, is because “our society is highly dependent on technology, so when a text or an email gets lost, or our computer crashes, we are highly inconvenienced.”

Mercury goes retrograde three to four times a year — more than any other planet. This year, thankfully, it moves backwards just three times. Mercury also retrogrades in just one element every year, and this year it’s happening in air signs. Montúfar says this is important to note. “Instead of analyzing Mercury retrogrades alone, they all form part of an overall story,” she says. “It also means that we will be working with the energies that relate to that element in particular.” Mercury retrogrades in air signs affect us on a more intellectual and mental level, compared to when Mercury retrogrades in the other elements, she says.

Without further ado, the dates Mercury will retrograde in 2021 in the U.S. are:

January 30 to February 20, in Aquarius. The pre-retrograde shadow (which is the time before the retrograde officially kicks off, when we may already start feeling the effects of the movement) will begin on January 15, and the post-retrograde shadow ends on March 12.

May 29 to June 22, in Gemini. The pre-retrograde shadow begins on May 14, and the post-retrograde shadow ends on July 7.

September 27 to October 18, in Libra. The pre-retrograde shadow begins on September 6, and the post-retrograde shadow ends on November 2.

For fairness’s sake, I have to point out that Mercury retrogrades aren’t all that terrible. They can even be positive. “It’s is a time to slow down, to revisit, redo, and rethink plans or projects,” Montúfar says. “In a fast-paced culture like ours, that is seen as negative, when the truth is it offers us a chance to fix projects and situations that actually needed revision in order to be successful.”

So while marking down these transits in your 2021 planner can help you prepare and get through them more easily, recognize that it’s not just a time of chaos and destruction — it can be a time of growth too.

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My Aer didn’t just arrive. It made a full entrance in my parents’ mailbox (howdy, she’s quarantining with family) in a chic silver envelope, intriguing my mother and 3-yr-old nephew alike. “I had to let him open it,” she told me after they checked the mail, “it’s so shiny.” Golf claps for that one, Dame: you’ve made packaging sleek enough to impress your mother, yet discreet enough not to be inappropriate should it land in the hands of a child. Things like that matter.

Within the envelope was a tie-dye, blue-grey pouch with a silky, moss green lining – and therein was my Aer: matte, smooth, and about the size of a small mango. Light, and easy to hold. Gender-neutral, with its cloudy lilac colour. Hell, it even matched my nail polish. On paper, it was perfect. Made from medical grade silicone? Yup. Eco-friendly? Cue the magnetic USB rechargeable. Water-resistant? Mhm.

I was bummed when I turned it on and it sounded like a swarm of deep-voiced jet skis. “Mom, can you hear my vibrator?” are words I never want to say (and still haven’t, although, honestly, she DGAF; last week she called a vagina a “piss flap”), so I waited to toy with the motor intensity when I knew my family was watching TV. But here’s the thing I forgot about new vibrators: if you’re afraid it will be loud in that initial unboxing, it will always seem louder. Aer’s rumble is actually pretty deep (unlike the shrieking motor of my favorite headbang dildo), and was even more muffled once the suction part touched my skin. Duh, I thought, placing my pointer finger over the hole, then over my stomach, then over my nipple (shoe fits!). Sweet relief for discretion’s sake and because, well, I was rooting for Dame. This company was founded by sexologist Alexandra Fine and engineer Janet Lieberman in 2014 — who have since talked passionately about holding their products to the same standard of “value engineering” they saw in every other electronic device, and about changing the world of sex toy development in the larger scheme of changing the way we talk about sex. A world of intentional vibrating, if you will. 

For me, the first sign of a good vibrator is seeing how my body responds in the initial seconds of use. Before I feel stimulated – and we’re talking seconds here — I should feel like some tiny ghosts just cracked my whole back. My spine becomes a noodle. My breathing is better, deeper. In that sense, Aer is a testament to its namesake; it’s so light and ergonomic that it felt like a natural extension of my palm, traveling around my clit as if it had been there before and instantly getting me to relax. For me, that’s convenient — and I imagine that for people who seek more accessible toys, it’s a relief. Especially when we’re working with the clit. “Unfortunately, this isn’t an organ that’s usually taught about in school or otherwise,” says Dr. Li Lock, Interim Director of Education and Research Associate at Planned Parenthood Great Plains, and the Research Specialist at Transgender Training Institute, “It’s often up to individuals to figure it out for themselves. Some folx may enjoy direct external stimulation of the exposed head, packed with nerve endings; others may prefer a deeper internal stimulation of the parts of the clitoris extending inside the body, using fingers or toys. Some folx may like a lot of attention on the clitoris; for others, it may be too intense or uncomfortable.” Lots of things, they emphasize, “can change how our bodies feel (like hormone therapy, birth control, pregnancy, etc.), which may impact our preferences for different types of stimulation.” Sex educator Haley Hasen agrees. As the founder of a “trans, sex worker/ erotic labor, kink/BDSM, STI, fat-body, mental health/ illness, disability-affirming, anti-racist and ANTI-anti-Semitic” platform, she’s passionate about giving the clit the attention it deserves. “I was taught in a very cishet, binary sex education way,” she says. “I believed until a few years ago that penetrative sex was strictly for male pleasure and that my job was to lay there and pretend to enjoy it. I thought I was ‘broken’ because I could not orgasm. I always knew it was there but was never taught what to do with it. Rub it? Flick it? Scratch it?” 

Alas, the clit is not a Bop It. Aer understands that. The five speeds and patterns were easy to play around with, and edged me into climax for a few minutes without numbing, hurting, or overwhelming my clit. I especially appreciate this as a right-brained bean who tends to lose my orgasm(s) in the pattern-tap-dance of toys that have, like, 20 different settings. Remember, your body is smart. You share a language that will both memorize, and evolve your path to pleasure. But sometimes, less is more when you’re building that kind of communication. 

If I’m honest, Aer helped me realize that I wasn’t just sleeping on the power of the clit during my early twenties – I was gaslighting its abilities. I love penetration. I also love marzipan. But that doesn’t mean I should build every delicious meal off of a foundation of almond meal when garlic tostones also exist. “I highly recommend watching yourself in a mirror to learn how your body depicts pleasure,” says Halsen, who has “moved away from an orgasm-based mindset, and towards a pleasure-based mindset” as she continues to explore clitoral pleasure, and I’m going to do the same. In terms of brainpower, it helps so much to have Aer on my side. It gives me confidence (and orgasms). Its sensitivity feels near-sentient (also impressive, for a non-motion-sensor vibrator), and its whole aesthetic schtick — however lame as that might sound — feels elevated, but sincere. That’s important because we deserve not only trust with our vibrators, we deserve chemistry.

Dame Aer Suction Toy, $95 USD

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When we were nine, our makeup skills didn’t go much beyond sneaking a smear of our mom’s red lipstick or glitter gloss that came with those dual-tipped sponge applicators. Needless to say, cat eyes and contouring didn’t make their way into our makeup proficiency well into our adulthood. But when your mom is Beyoncé, witnessing iconic glam easily puts you lightyears ahead of the beauty game — just ask Blue Ivy Carter. 

Beyoncé and Jay-Z’s eldest daughter hasn’t even hit double digits yet, and is already building her resume as a makeup artist. Beyoncé’s mom, Tina Lawson, shared a selfie on Instagram crediting her granddaughter for her impressive full beat, which included almost perfect cat eyes and red lipstick. “My talented granddaughter Blue made up my face today,” Lawson wrote. “She is only nine years old. Can you imagine her at 15 doing my makeup?”

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A post shared by Tina Knowles (@mstinalawson)

To answer that question: We can only imagine what Blue Ivy’s skills will look like as a teenager if they’re this good so far, and the internet agrees. “Wow, Blue Ivy is also a makeup artist…wow, her mind…so brilliant!” one Twitter user raved. “Blue Ivy is out here doing full faces of makeup at nine, and I’m 26 and still can’t put on lashes,” said another. Vivica A. Fox chimed in, adding, “NICE! Blue can paint!”

Now, the real question is, did we expect anything less than perfection from Blue Ivy, who is currently nominated for a Grammy and just narrated the audiobook for Hair Love, an Oscar-winning short film? Honestly, no.

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