For some, this New York Fashion Week was fall '17; for others, it was spring. But, on a Wednesday, it was all Yeezy Season. West showed his fifth collection in partnership with Adidas Originals this afternoon, with cameos from models like Luka Sabbat and Amina Blue and with a debut of the much-Instagrammed Calabasas line. First, let's talk about the lead-up, though, because it wouldn't be a Yeezy function were it not preceded by weeks of speculation: Will it, won't it — and if it will, when and where? West gave more of a heads up than in past years that Season 5 was, indeed, happening (a few weeks versus a few days), and it would take place at a well-known venue (Pier 59 Studios). Still, the CFDA wasn't pleased with his spontaneous announcement, so there were some scheduling changes. The official invites weren't sent out to editors until the night before, though — and some attendees were understandably confused by the unorthodox presentation: a T-shirt with the phrase "Lost Hills" printed on it, delivered in a vacuum-sealed plastic bag along with a Season 4 lookbook. (A hint at an album drop and surprise guest appearance, perhaps?) Nevertheless, this package has become the closest thing to a golden ticket during New York Fashion Week — despite speculation that the industry was pretty much done with Kanye after the whole Roosevelt Island adventure last season. (The performer's brief alignment with Donald Trump didn't help in the eyes of the fashion flock, either.)
And though we may be in our fifth round, this Yeezy Season had some firsts. Presumably, it was our first official look at the racing stripe-heavy Calabasas sub-label West has been working on with Adidas (and that the Kardashian-Jenners have already been flaunting) for some time now. Then, it would mark Halima Aden's New York Fashion Week debut — her first season as part of IMG, and the agency's first hijab-wearing model, Business of Fashion reported.
Also, there was no bow: Instead, West remained out of sight, with Kim Kardashian ducking backstage with Anna Wintour, according to The New York Times' Vanessa Friedman. Though the show was set up in the traditional seated runway format, Yeezy Season 5 actually kicked off with projections of the models. Much to the relief of those in attendance, though, it was just the setup for the catwalk presentation, which started right on New York Fashion Week time (i.e. about half an hour after everyone was summoned to the venue).
The collection featured all the silhouettes we've come to expect from the brand — oversized sweatshirts, slouchy outerwear, and utilitarian trousers — alongside many of the luxe staples the Wife of Pablo has been known to preview way before the runway, such as knee-high boots, track pants, and over-the-top furs. There was a break from the consistent color stories West has implemented in past drops (he has historically limited the collection to neutral or earth tones), instead mixing different hues more freely and introducing camo patterns. Also incorporated into Season 5 were the Adidas logo, the Calabasas graphic, references to L.A. geography, and Black Panther imagery. (For more dispatches from the front lines, we recommend following Friedman, the Washington Post's Robin Givhan, Hollywood Reporter's Booth Moore, and Fashionista's Maria Bobila on Twitter for their live coverage of Yeezy Season.)
Perhaps the most relevant takeaway from any Yeezy show, though, is the footwear — namely, what the next season's It sneaker will be. The latest addition is reportedly called the Yeezy Runner. And while West has been wearing the style for a while now, it just made its official debut, in all its retro, color-blocked glory.
Finally, there shoes to match the Calabasas track pants we've been eyeing for months now. Maybe it is true what West said: Is Calabasas actually the new Abu Dhabi?