A report in the
New York Times
cites numerous Derelicte-nodding items that made their way down the spring '14 runways. There were soft black purses that resembled trash bags at Lanvin, and tech fabrics at J.W. Anderson and Giambattista Valli that seemed to reference cardboard boxes and corrugated iron. The “post-apocalyptic wasteland” that provided the setting for Marc Jacobs’ show also gets a name check.
Far from being a trash-inspired fashion conspiracy, the
demonstrates that each of the examples form part of the designers’ own agenda – and these appear to have little to do with Mugatu and co. Alber Elbaz famously despises the concept of It bags – and many commentators think he used the bags to make a pointed statement in a show that otherwise cranked up the glamour. J.W. Anderson claimed that his use of fabrics “was about finding a new way of pleating”, while Marc Jacobs told Style.com that his show space was “a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene.”