If anyone knows a thing or two about what's big in beauty, it's Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior Make-Up. From bold Instagram filter-esque eye makeup to intricate face detail, there isn't a look he can't master, so of course he was going to take the helm as beauty lead at Dior's AW20 show in Paris earlier this week.
After painting the faces of all 81 models (you read that correctly) we sat down with Peter, who lifted the lid on the distinctive '70s-inspired look and let us in on the Parisian beauty trends which are set to take the year by storm.
Warrior grunge eyeliner
Forget expertly applied, razor-sharp winged liner. For the Dior AW20 show, eye makeup was anything but precise – a trend set to shake up Paris and the rest of the beauty world. "We wanted the eyeliner to be different to the preciousness of elegant makeup," Peter told R29. "The vibe is '70s-inspired; everything is blunt and intense, and there are unconventional shapes which lend an intense look that gives a bit of a warrior strength to it."
And there were strictly no feline flicks. Instead, Peter used Diorshow On Stage Eyeliner in Matte Black, £27.50, to fashion unsharpened lines that suited each model's eye. Some had liner scribbled underneath the lower lash line, while others wore liner in a horizontal V-shape at the outer corners. For a slightly smoky effect, Peter suggests tracing liquid liner with Diorshow Khôl in Black Khôl, £22. "The liquid guarantees staying power but the pencil liner moves slightly, so you get that kohl effect."
The new 'glass skin'
"I love dewy, glowing skin but for the catwalk we wanted a very natural-looking complexion," said Peter. "We didn’t want models to look like they had spent ages on their skin, so we kept it raw. Skin doesn't look plastered but there is a beautiful, matte finish, and any glow will be natural. There's no powder."
Instead, Peter looked to a light layer of Dior Backstage Face and Body Foundation, £29.50, applied all over with a stippling brush. Models who needed extra coverage had Dior Forever Skin Correct Concealer, £25, tapped on to blemishes. But first, skin prep is essential. Peter suggests blanketing the skin with Dior Prestige La Micro-Lotion de Rose, £72, and following with Dior Backstage Face and Body Primer, £27.50, to keep foundation and concealer intact.
The trick to nailing the effortless and accidentally perfect makeup that's synonymous with Parisian beauty is to be slapdash about it, according to Peter. "When you see a Parisian or French woman applying her makeup, she doesn’t take her time. She does it quickly and it's definitely not perfect. The fast, nonchalant way she has applied it could even look as though she is wearing her makeup from the day before. It’s cool and lived in."
Use the smudging tool on the end of the kohl liner to create a less-than-perfect effect, and blur lipstick or gloss outwards (Peter used Dior Lip Maximiser 001 Pink, £28) using your fingertips.
"After the extreme contouring and highlighting trend, we now just appreciate good skin," said Peter, who places an emphasis on translucent and sheer textures over heavy, cakey finishes – especially when it comes to cheek colour. Try the Dior Backstage Glow Face Palette in 001, £36, a universal quad of pearlescent yet gauzy blush and highlighter. The sheer textures impart a lit-from-within finish. Using a fluffy brush, Peter dipped into each shade to impart "imperceptible touches of light" on the cheeks. "This provides a little bit of contouring but it's not obvious. It’s more balanced out," said Peter. "Adding very little colour gives the illusion of natural beauty."
Super defined brows just might have had their day. Instead of accentuating the natural arch, which can be tricky and often end up entirely unsymmetrical, Peter predicted we'll embrace the bushy boy brow with a much straighter shape, as seen at the show.
"Using the Diorshow Brow Styler, £22, I took the arch out of the brow to make it straight and almost horizontal," he told R29. "But I kept the look full and natural to complement the intense eyeliner using Diorshow Pump 'n' Brow, £23.50." Whip the brush through sparse hairs for beefed up brows that don't look too 'done'.
Travel was provided to the author by Dior for the purpose of this piece.