All You Need To Know About BIAB — & How It Could Help Grow Your Natural Nails

As a beauty editor, it's my job to test beauty treatments, but there are only a handful that I'm really obsessed with. Sure, there are tons of interesting options out there, like LED facials and injectable moisturizer, but few are genuinely innovative and game-changing (in my opinion, the single most overused phrase in the beauty industry).  

Without a doubt, one of those innovations and my can’t-live-without product is builder in a bottle, which you may also know as BIAB nails. I'll even bet money on you trying it and loving it. Here's everything you need to know about the new nail treatment sweeping salons everywhere. 

BIAB (also known as builder gel) was developed by the brand The Gel Bottle. Creative nail expert and content creator, Sadie Jordan, always uses BIAB on her clients: “It's a [curable] gel nail enhancement designed to add strength and structure to your natural nails, helping them to grow out without breaking as easily,” says Jordan. She adds that BIAB is more viscous than gel polish. “It allows you to build an apex — the highest part of a nail enhancement, most visible from the side angle — which is what makes your nail more durable.”  

BIAB is layered on top of your natural nail (whatever the length) to lend strength and prevent breakage. BIAB comes in a range of different colors, but the most popular tends to be clear or neutral pink. It can be used as a base coat (with gel polish layered over the top, including nail art) or applied on its own.  

The main benefit of BIAB is the ability to grow your natural nails underneath. Even long-term nail-biters, or those whose nails are prone to breakage, tend to have success with growth. What's more, countless BIAB nail looks can be achieved without glue or plastic tips, says Jordan. This means you can have long-lasting manicures with a similar removal process to regular gel by simply filing away the top layer and soaking off the product with acetone. 

Another benefit of BIAB is that it can be used alongside nail forms (a paper or foil tip) to repair chipped corners. 

It can be hard to tell, but there are differences between BIAB, traditional gel, Gel-X, and acrylics.

Gel nail polish was developed by CND under the brand name Shellac and is a liquid polish that is cured and hardened under a UV lamp. Curing makes gel polish chip-resistant and gives it a longer wear.  

BIAB is a form of gel polish that has a stronger base — this is why it assists growth. An upside of BIAB is that it can be soaked off just like gel polish. Both gel polish and BIAB give that incredible, long-lasting shine that regular nail polish can't achieve. 

Gel-X is a gel nail extension system developed by Aprés Nails, where full-cover tips are bonded to the natural nail with gel and cured under a UV lamp, then shaped to your preference. BIAB doesn’t require tips. Instead, it’s applied onto the natural nail.  

Acrylics are created using liquid monomer and powder polymer, which should be mixed carefully by your nail tech. Acrylics don't need curing under a lamp and harden within a few minutes. If you're someone who loves really long nails, acrylics tend to be a sturdier option. One similarity between BIAB and acrylics is that once the nail starts to grow out, you can get an infill (where product is applied to the nail growth area).  

So what's the best technique? It all depends on your budget, what your nail tech offers, the outcome and length you're looking for, as well as your activity level, or how much you use your hands. 

Luxury nail artist and beauty professional Charlotte Emily explains that most of her clients come in every three weeks to maintain their BIAB nails. But she notes that if there's proper nail prep, a BIAB set can last for much longer. That said, keeping BIAB nails on for longer than four weeks isn’t recommended, as lifting can allow water to get trapped beneath the gel and encourage bacterial growth. After three or four weeks, BIAB nails can either be infilled or soaked off.  

Both Emily and Jordan note that those with extremely damaged nails (for example, very thin, extremely brittle, and lifting away from the nail bed) shouldn't get BIAB nails. In some cases, those with conditions like psoriasis may also want to avoid BIAB nails. “Applying BIAB directly to a severely damaged nail bed can cause heat spikes — a stinging sensation on the nail bed — and the product should not come into contact with skin,” says Jordan.  

A qualified nail tech will let you know whether you're a suitable candidate for BIAB and can create a treatment plan that's best suited to your nails. Happily, Emily said she's never had to turn anyone away from BIAB nails.  

“BIAB does take a little longer to soak off compared to gel polish,” says Jordan, but as long as the top coat is filed and broken down, this isn't a major issue. “It can also make your nails grow out very fast,” she adds, “so you may need to have manicures more frequently if you don't like the look of regrowth.”  

At present, BIAB has no downsides for Emily. “My clients and I are happy with the results, and it has created a low-maintenance manicure which is great for a busy lifestyle,” she says.   

Today, BIAB is just as widely available as gel polish — if you’re unsure, simply call your local nail salon and ask specifically for the treatment.  

The cost of nails always depends on where you live, with cities being the most expensive. In New York and LA, for example, a typical price range for basic BIAB is between $40 to $80.