When Fendi's creative director Karl Lagerfeld died in February, Silvia Venturini Fendi expanded her role from creative directing accessories and menswear to womenswear. Fendi worked alongside Lagerfeld for the majority of his time, totaling 54 years. On Thursday, Fendi officially transitioned into her new role, debuting her first solo collection sans Lagerfeld.
Fendi's spring 2020 collection is meant to evoke the lightness of warmer months, both in attitude and clothing. “The summer and the sunny days put me in such a different mood, more open to experiences, and I feel more freedom,” Fendi told WWD backstage. “When summer gets closer, my state of mind changes.” So, what does that look like exactly? “The emotion of simple things, of real clothes and simple materials that remind me of summer,” the designer explained.
Specifically, Venturini Fendi wanted to revisit how it feels to summer at her family's vacation home. “The island between Rome and Naples [is] where you can see the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets, I think, in the world,” she told Vogue. “I think when you are in this period of year, you feel more liberated and relaxed than at any time, and you have that feeling of being ready for new experiences.”
And so she presented a runway full of punchy patterns, suede wrap dresses, quilted skirting, sheer socks worn with heeled loafers, a fuzzy plaid coat reminiscent of a bath robe in the best sense, and mini bags worn as necklaces. The models wore their hair loose and the make-up was light. Fendi is celebrating femininity and it looks great. “You think of the practicality of things,” said Venturini Fendi. “I want women to feel natural and good in these clothes.”
Done and done.