9 Common Summer Makeup Dilemmas Solved By Pro Artists

Photo by Sarah Harry-Isaacs.
From rooftop bars to the latest sandal trends, there's a lot to look forward to during the summer, but makeup mishaps aren't one of them. Whether you prefer full coverage or a single slick of mascara, unsightly creases, sweaty smudges and excess shine are pretty much inevitable when the temperature soars. To make things a bit easier, we enlisted four of the best makeup artists in the business – Ruby Hammer, Ariane Poole, Kenneth Soh and Abbie May – to advise how best to keep your foundation, mascara, eyeliner and everything else as pristine as possible.
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How to stop eyeliner from smudging
According to both Ruby and Kenneth, it's all in the formula. If you want something quick and easy, Ruby suggests looking to Urban Decay's Glide-On Eye Pencil, £16, thanks to the 24/7 waterproof pigments. "For a liquid liner that doesn't budge, MAC's Liquidlast Liner, £17, is brilliant," adds Ruby. "It just does not move, so make sure you have a bi-phase oily makeup remover handy to take it off when you're ready." Try Institut Esthederm Osmoclean High Tolerance Makeup Remover, £22, or Simple Kind To Skin Dual Effect Eye Make-Up Remover, £4.95.
If you've got extra time in the morning, Kenneth regularly combines eyeshadow pigment and mixing medium on shoots where makeup needs to last hours under warm lighting. He applies this using an angled brush. "Once dry, it’s both water- and smudge-proof. Try Inglot's Duraline, £10, which is a liquid sealant." If that's too much of a faff, Kenneth also paints a light layer of clear mascara (he rates Maybelline's Great Lash Clear Mascara, £6.89) over a kohl liner to seal it in place for longer. It's also worth avoiding applying eye cream to your eyelids if you regularly wear eye makeup, as creamy, oily formulas could cause smudging. Take a leaf out of Katie Jane Hughes' book and apply moisturiser selectively after perfecting your eye makeup.
How to stop eyeshadow from creasing
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If you already have oily lids, you might find that creasing happens even more so in the summer. Ariane Poole suggests ditching your usual powder eyeshadow for a liquid. "When it comes to eyeshadow, liquid formulas have a much better staying power than powders, which tend to smudge and crease in the heat. Choose a quick-dry liquid shadow. They glide on effortlessly to wash eyes in sheer, radiant colour that is less likely to budge or fade." Try Ariane Poole Eyeshine, £18, or Too Faced Crystal Whips Shimmering Eyeshadow Veil, £19.
How to stop mascara from melting
Waterproof mascaras free from lash-building fibres are your best bet in the summer, but avoiding smudges lies in the application technique. Ruby suggests looking up when applying on to the lower lashes and looking down when coating the top lashes. "Use a biodegradable cotton bud and a tiny bit of concealer to clean up any mistakes instantly."
Kenneth rates mascaras by Korean and Japanese beauty brands as they are specifically formulated for humid climates. He recommends ISEHAN Kiss Me Heroine Make Long & Curl Mascara Advanced Film, £12.37. R29 rates Fairydrops Scandal Queen Waterproof Mascara, £18.50, too.
How to keep foundation in place all day
According to Kenneth, the key to immaculate foundation is 'zone moisturising', which Instagram makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes calls selective placement. "Use a mattifying moisturiser like Bioderma Sébium Mat Control, £13.50, on areas that tend to get oily such as the forehead and nose, before applying makeup. I also like to combine foundations. After applying your usual liquid version, buff a light layer of powder foundation in a matching shade over the areas where your foundation tends to slip or separate. This will give you that perfect, almost airbrushed finish, which has longevity in wear. I like Tropic Mineral Foundation, £24."
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Ruby suggests choosing your foundation based on your skin type, and that if you apply the same principles as your skincare, you're more likely to achieve a flawless look that lasts all day. "Primer also provides the best possible base for foundation but the real key is not to touch your face during the day. The warmth from your fingers will only move makeup around."
How to stop foundation from changing colour or 'oxidising'
Abbie mentions that you can't really stop a foundation from oxidising, you just need to know which ones do and to avoid them. "Make sure that when you are purchasing a new foundation, you take a sample. Wear it for a day and then go back and purchase it if you are happy with the overall colour and effect," she said. "So many people don't do this and then end up with foundations they can't use." And if you're abroad somewhere warm, you're likely to catch a tan, so Abbie suggests shopping for foundation with a yellow undertone. "Try not to go for pink or neutral tones, as they are less likely to match the rest of your body. Look for warmer tones."
How to wear SPF under makeup – without it pilling
When makeup and sunscreen formulas aren't compatible, you might find that they tend to come off in little rubbery lumps, otherwise known as pilling. Abbie recommends shopping around for the best sunscreen, but swears by PCA Skin Weightless Protection Broad Spectrum SPF 45, £39.50. "I first used this product when I went for a facial at Skinwork at Alex Eagle. They advised I use this product under makeup and on its own when out in the sun. It's super lightweight and doesn't leave your face looking ghostly like other high protection suncreams. You'll forget you're wearing it." Also try Kiehl's Ultra Light Daily UV Defense Aqua Gel SPF 50 PA++++, £38, and La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra Light Facial Sun Cream, £16.50.
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How to find the best light coverage foundation
For coverage that isn't heavy but is buildable, Abbie suggests a CC cream like Mary Kay CC Cream Sunscreen SPF 15, £19.50. "This glides on nicely and is easy to blend. I can't live without it during the summer and it's all I use on myself and on my clients thanks to the natural finish. Don't underestimate it, though. It covers blemishes, too, and isn't too matte." Ariane says to look for something lightweight yet pigment-rich to moisturise skin and even out tone simultaneously. Try Ariane Poole CC Cream, £24, or It Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC+ Oil-Free Matte with SPF 40, £31.
How to combat an overly oily T-zone
If you've got your oily skincare routine nailed, Kenneth mentions investing in a mattifying primer, like Marc Jacobs Under(Cover) Blurring Coconut Face Primer, £31, applied with a damp Beautyblender, £17, instead of your hands. Concentrate half a pump to your nose, forehead and chin before going in with foundation or concealer. Ruby also advocates blotting papers for soaking up any excess oil over makeup.
How to stop lipstick from bleeding outside the lip line
A sweaty upper lip is inevitable, especially if you commute via public transport. Cue lipstick everywhere it isn't supposed to be. Avoiding the unsightly transfer is a three-step process. "Use a lip liner to draw round your lip line and all over the lip to lock in the colour, then add the lipstick," says Abbie. "My trick is to then perfect the outline with concealer like Maybelline's Instant Anti Age Eraser Concealer, £8.99, by applying it with a flat brush around the perimeter of your lips. This will keep lipstick looking sharp."
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