The Ordinary’s $8.50 Lip Serum Is So Good, I’m Done Gatekeeping It

There’s a new serum by The Ordinary on everyone’s lips these days — literally. (And no, it’s not the Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, although that one is worth its weight in gold, IMHO.) Last year, the editor-beloved brand quietly debuted the PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum, and if you ask me, the fact that more people aren’t talking about it is surprising. So let’s fix that! 

The concept of lip exfoliators itself isn’t new, but the category has overwhelmingly flooded by physical exfoliators — aka, lip scrubs. And if I’m being honest, I’ve yet to meet one I truly can recommend in good faith — they’re often messy, overly abrasive, and don’t deliver much beyond immediate, temporary gratification. Until recently, my go-to method for keeping my lips in tip-top shape was a slightly damp, soft washcloth, gently buffed in small circular motions to lift away flakes. It worked, sure, but it wasn’t blowing my mind. The only other chemical lip exfoliator I’ve tested is Dr. Idriss’ two-step Lip Baste system, which I actually loved — but I won’t lie, it’s quite expensive at $44. Could The Ordinary’s new launch be a more wallet-friendly alternative? I sought to find out. 

As the name suggests, The Ordinary’s PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum is designed to slough off dead skin cells, leaving lips softer and smoother — much like exfoliation does for the rest of your face. It’s not just a win for getting lipstick and liner to glide on without enhancing flaky, patchy spots; it’s also a solid solution if you’re dealing with chronically dry, peeling lips. 

True to form, the serum has a watery, lightweight texture that doesn’t just “sit” on the lips — my biggest pet peeve with any lip product. It absorbs quickly and feels virtually undetectable after a few minutes. I personally didn’t experience any burning or stinging, even using it three times a week, but then again, my skin (including my lips, apparently) isn’t particularly sensitive, and I don’t live in a cold, dry climate. If you’re more reactive or new to acids, it’s worth easing in and building up your frequency over time.  

Don’t let the tiny bottle fool you: You only need a drop or two to coat your lips in a thin layer, and the brand recommends using it no more than three times a week. At that rate, I don’t see myself running out anytime soon — which makes the $8.50 price tag feel like an absolute steal. 

Most notably, the hero ingredient in The Ordinary’s PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum is polyhydroxy acid, also known as PHA. PHAs are typically regarded as a suitable option for sensitive skin types, since the molecules are larger than AHAs and therefore penetrate the skin more slowly, resulting in less irritation. (This is an intentional choice on The Ordinary’s part, since the skin on the lips is much thinner and more delicate than the rest of the face. Also, unlike the face, it doesn’t have oil glands.) 

Besides the exfoliating actives, other star ingredients in the formula include humectants like glycerin and ectoin — two moisturizing powerhouses that have a protective, cocoon-like effect to shield skin against the elements and lock in moisture. 

• Exfoliates and hydrates lips.
• Formulated with a 5% concentration of polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) as well as alpha hydroxy acids.
• Absorbs instantly and doesn't feel abrasive like a lip scrub.

I say this with love, but the dropper packaging (identical to The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide Eye Serum, just in clear, frosted glass) isn’t the most user-friendly since even a controlled drop ends up being a lot of product. On clean, dry lips — before any balm or mask — I dispense the smallest dot, then use my finger to spread a thin layer across my lips. (Some Redditors recommend using a clean cotton swab  dipped directly into the bottle to avoid touching the dropper to fingers.) It’s totally fine if you go slightly outside the vermillion border (aka, the edges of your lips), and in my experience, it's actually an added benefit: within a week, I noticed my sebaceous filaments — those tiny, oil-clogged pores that sometimes are mistaken for blackheads — were noticeably reduced. 

I like to apply this right before bed, since I’m careful not to accidentally lick it off or remove it earlier in the day while eating or drinking. By morning, there’s no residue left behind — just smooth, soft lips. (That said, I like using a balm to layer hydration back in when I wake up.) 

With consistent use, I found my lips weren’t just flake-free and less crusty — they actually felt more hydrated and a little plumper, too. The formula includes antioxidants like wild carrot extract, which helps support the lips’ skin barrier (yes, they have one of those, too!) and helps minimize transepidermal water loss — the gradual evaporation of water from the skin over time. 

For under $10, this serum has completely changed my lip-care routine — mainly because it finally gave me one. It’s affordable enough that I don’t hesitate to use it consistently, which, as it turns out, makes all the difference. (I’ve even converted my husband, whose perpetually chapped lips weren’t exactly ideal for kissing. Love you, babe.) 

Paired with The Ordinary’s squalane-infused lip balm, I can confidently say my lips have never looked — or felt — better. 

The Ordinary’s PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum is available for $8.50 at Ulta, Sephora, and The Ordinary’s website.