In the Mood

Orthodox gets deep with its debut women's collection. By Chadner Navarro
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When asked to describe the broader theme of his new women's collection, Orthodox founder Eric Niccoli frequently uses one word: moody. "The collection is not always bright and cheery," he says. "The Orthodox girl is deeply in touch with her emotions and doesn't need to put on an act of well-being for others."
Started in 2005 as just a menswear label, Orthodox's first collection for women debuts this fall revealing inspirations such as androgyny, modernity, and Franz Kline, just the right combo for a girl who likes a little scowl. The collection—all in a mix of sooty blacks and charcoals with some splashes of saturated purples and reds—conveys a new approach to the typical contemporary street uniform, with a smattering of skinny pants, motorcycle jackets, high-waist pencil skirts, and perfect silk shift dresses.
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But before dismissing the line as just another city girl's go-to garments, a closer look reveals a complexity that's as sensual as it is sincere. The black-to-charcoal fade effect on a bracelet-sleeve wool overcoat easily captures the somewhat morose vibe Niccoli is aiming for. The Franz Kline-influenced prints on a number of silk dresses brilliantly break up the monotony of solid colors that might otherwise overpower the collection. "We're looking to create a sexy, moody look that seamlessly combines elegance with what's casual," the designers says.
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But even with his successful foray into womenswear, Niccoli insists on keeping his brand securely fastened to his menswear roots. Evident not only in the boyish cuts of a few shirts and jackets, but also in the color palette that seamlessly links the guys to the girls. "In the end, I wanted them to be brother and sister collections."
For more information and availability, go to www.orthodoxclothing.com.
Orthodox gets deep with its debut women's collection.
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