Button: Pride 2020

Fashion Anarchy: London’s New Young Rebels

London is known for championing new talent—where would we be without the hefty sponsorship packages from Topshop's New Gen, Fashion Forward from the BFC and the group showings from Fashion East and Fashion Fringe? Here's a snapshot of the newer names to keep watching in London…
Peter Pilotto (Above):
In only their third season design duo Peter Pilotto and partner Christopher De Vos wowed the crowds at London Fashion Week with their considered, accomplished and highly creative approach to print work and flattering draping techniques. Citing "abnormal art" and "a modern grotesque", each piece in the collection had sophisticated print effects using colors that mimic "the contrast between the subdued moth and the vibrant butterfly" —this is subtle color and print treatment for a new breed of intelligent design label.

Meadham Kirchhoff:
Gothic meets rocker-chic at yet another London designer duo collection Meadham Kirchhoff, whose designers Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff, have been slowly making their name in London after debuting here two years ago. Describing their style as "aggressive, feminine, sharp and sophisticated" the designers presented laced-up leggings, panelled or knee-padded skinny trousers provided a dark, edgier mix of Victoriana meets moto-cross and something quite new to look forward to in London.
Their day job is designing for MaxMara but after being runners up in the 2005 Fashion Fringe competition, Abdul Koroma and Andrew Jones of Modernist went all ladylike with their ode to a trousseau this year. "We've mixed the 50s with Marie Antoinette, but in a really modern way. We also like to play with fabrics," said Jones. "We bonded technical fabrics with duchesse satin, which gives it amazing body." It's a range of mix and match techniques that worked on lots of levels for perfectly pitched LBDs with lace drapes, cropped tuxes or sheer paneled and draped dresses.
Ethical fashion took to the runways during London Fashion Week with the Wildlifeworks show—part of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout event that runs daily longside LFW. Barry Grainger, designer and creator of the sustainable fashion label that manufactures its collections in Kenya, said the collection was inspired by both the 1920s and the 1970s - female explorers from the former decade, and a touch of glam from the latter. He told us: "We concentrated on more organic fabrics and lots of silk, so it made it more fluid. It's a bit like clothes you might find in your granny's attic—full of aged, vintage pastel colors."
Natascha Stolle at Fashion East:
American anglophile, Natascha Stolle made her London debut at Fashion East, with a collection for, "women who wished they had been sluts in high school". She said her collection reflects her first experiments playing dress-up in front of a mirror, with blazers and tailoring done in jersey—it's meant to be really easy and fun." So blouses and marled tees rigorously tucked into high-waisted skirts and tailored pants had a hidden strictness about them. Jacket shapes came soft and slouchy twist on this week's trend for sheer layering ­ a vivid deckchair-striped dress overlaid with black ciré was a unique take on the ubiquitous sheer trend.
Go By a Secret Path at Fashion Fringe:
Celebrating its fifth anniversary, the Fashion Fringe designer competition—chaired by Donatella Versace this year, showcased four individual collections that divided the audience and panel of judges. This year's title went to Korean designer Eun Jeong's label, Go By a Secret Path. Jeong was crying with joy when she was given the award by Versace and Fashion Fringe creator, Colin McDowell for her collection all-white collection full of frills and flounces. Inspired by the film Dangerous Liaisons, she used cotton lace—sometimes washed and crumpled—to feather dress hems, tops and trailing tippets, while heavy silk drapes and skinny white jeans counterbalanced the ruffles.

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