Basic Beauty Is Officially Dead At NYFW, Thanks To Euphoria

It's hard to remember the last season when minimal, no-makeup makeup wasn't reigning supreme at New York Fashion Week. For years, the most extreme part of any runway look might involve a swipe of colored mascara at most. Now, the tide seems to be turning — and we have Euphoria to thank.

In the few months since the first episode of Euphoria aired on HBO in June, the controversial TV show has proven to have an impressive impact on the beauty looks we've seen everywhere: on Instagram, on red carpets, and now on the runway.

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Even if you haven't seen a single episode of the teen drama, you've probably spotted a beauty look inspired by the overall aesthetic of the show, designed by makeup department head Doniella Davy. While there's no simple equation for what defines a "Euphoria beauty look," it generally involves intense graphic liner, face decals, ornate rhinestone designs... you get the picture. It's brave, bold self-expression, with cosmetics as the catalyst.

Over the past week, we've spotted similar makeup designs on the faces of models walking the runway for Pyer Moss, Jason Wu, and Chromat — and Davy’s noticed, too. “As a believer in expressive and colorful makeup in general, it’s exciting to see these looks in full force on the runway,” Davy tells Refinery29. “It’s equally as exciting to see them on regular people in the real world.” 

Although designers are predicting what's to come for next spring and summer, we're betting Euphoria-inspired makeup will also be the biggest trend IRL this fall. Check out the photographic proof, ahead.

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Photo: Courtesy of MAC.

Graphic Eyeliner

Vfiles is all about the youth, so it makes sense that one of the biggest spectacles of the show was the playful makeup, which included painted eyebrows, glittery lids, and neon cat-eyes fit for Hunter Schafer's Euphoria character Jules.
Photo: IMaxTree.
There's never a dull moment at Chromat, and with this year marking the 10-year anniversary of the brand, it's no surprise that the makeup was extra special. MAC senior makeup artist Fatima made it all about the eyes, using a striping brush (something you'd usually find in a nail artist's kit) to decorate the outer and inner corners of models' lids in white and blue liner.
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Photo: IMaxTree.
Everyone may have been talking about the hand-crafted dresses at Ulla Johnson, but we couldn't help but notice the models' eyelids decorated in a sweet shade of pistachio green. This look is on the subtle side of the Euphoria spectrum, but the abstract shapes and painterly application designed by makeup artist Romy Soleimani is so on-brand for the Gen Z aesthetic.

Photo: Courtesy of Oribe and SHISEIDO.
Sandy Liang may have been inspired by the '60s, but that doesn't mean the metallic floating creases don't scream 2019. In fact, the modern take on the retro makeup trend isn't only popular on Euphoria, but also all over Instagram.
Photo: Imaxtree.
Jules was never seen with the same look twice, but we'd frequently spot cloud-like shapes all over her eyelids. Pat McGrath designed a similar look at Anna Sui, but layered her cloudy liner on top of neon pink lipstick and eyeshadow (yes, lipstick).
PHoto: Imaxtree.
Negative-space eyeshadow is back, as seen at Jonathan Cohen in a range of primary colors to match the blur of pigment in the collection.
PHoto: Imaxtree.
The cat-eye is even more dramatic in a post-Euphoria era. Proof: Oscar de la Renta's Dominican Republic-inspired runway show that included a batch of colors to match the paradise-friendly embroidered linens.
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PHoto: Imaxtree.
Cloud makeup isn't new (a more intricate version of the trend became a thing on Reddit and Instagram a year ago), but it's no surprise that there's been an uptick of the fluffy liner design after Davy created a similar look for Jules in Euphoria. In fact, almost the exact look was seen at Cynthia Rowley.
Photo: IMaxTree.

Painterly Colors

Speaking of painterly application, Maybelline's global makeup artist Erin Parsons designed this David Bowie-inspired eye look for Christian Siriano using nothing but a few bright shadows from the Maybelline Lemonade Palette, setting spray, and her fingers.
Photo: Courtesy of Maybelline.
Although the color palette at Jason Wu was inspired by summer florals, makeup artist Diane Kendal confirmed that Euphoria has been a buzzword at backstage fittings all week long, and served as major inspiration behind the dramatic approach to the diffused pink and yellow shadow.
Photo: IMaxTree.
MAC makeup artist Nami Yoshida took a similar approach for the diffused makeup look at Sies Marjan. Although the punchy draped blush is borrowed directly from the '80s, the focus of the pink shadow on the inner edge of the eyelid crease is a move straight out of Jules' book.
PHoto: Imaxtree.
This two-toned eyeshadow look — featuring a fiery red and neon yellow — seen at Nicole Miller would also be Jules-approved. The color combination was a favorite of the character on the show.
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Photo: Courtesy of UOMA Beauty.

Rhinestone & Glitter Details

Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond turned the traditional rock-and-roll archetype on its head Sunday night, ditching the skinny white men in flared jeans for Black women in rhinestone ensembles and Afros. The makeup looks designed by Daniel Sallstrom were a continuation of the theme, redefining glam rock with eyelids washed in red, blue, and yellow shadow from UOMA Beauty topped off with Swarovski crystals.
Photo: IMaxTree.
Area, Vogue Runway says, is about the future of fashion — an ethos the brand regularly incorporates into its show makeup. This year's look was no exception, with most models strutting down the runway in nothing but a strip of eyeliner and sparkly face decals.
Photo: Yuchen Liao/Getty Images.
Laurence Li and Chico Wang, the design duo behind Laurence & Chico, are famous for bringing fantasy to life on the runway. For this year’s show, the makeup team did exactly that by using the same Face Lace appliqués used in an episode of Euphoria on models. A coincidence? We think not. 
Photo: imaxtree.
Glitter tears were once reserved for Coachella and club-kid raves, but this year they’ve officially graduated to runway must-have at I Love Pretty’s Spring/Summer 2020 show. The messy-but-chic look is one of Euphoria's most notable thanks to protagonist Rue (Zendaya).
Photo: Imaxtree.
It looks like Rue's ritual of falling asleep in her makeup is officially a thing. The slept-in glitter look made an appearance on the runway for CDLM (Chris Peters of Creatures of the Wind's solo project) courtesy of makeup artist Jen Myles.
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PHoto: Courtesy of Marc Jacobs.
Marc Jacobs wrapped up Fashion Week with at least 60 different makeup, nail, and hair looks. It's hard to pick just one hero design, but this chartreuse liner topped with rhinestones was a fan favorite — and we'd guess Euphoria's Maddy Perez (played by Alexa Demie) would love it, too.
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