It may have been a mildly lackluster season, but there was still a handful of repeat runway themes that suggested the spring/summer '08 season might nonetheless have some sizzle. A few continuations of seasons past stood out, but overall, it was the appearance of more winter-friendly shades and nuances that had us most intrigued. From bowler hats to hot tomatoes, here are our other favorite runway moments.
1. Summer Metallics & Foiling—Metals have been enduring for a few seasons now, but what we saw last week was a more appealing and wearable play on the trend—dark and stormy midnight blues and greens and weathered foil-like silvers gave the standard shimmer more depth and drama. From left: Alexander Wang, Tim Hamilton, Rodarte, Vera Wang.
2. The 3-Piece Suit— We get it: Menswear is back. But this season, we saw it go one step further with the addition of an extra layer, the traditional menswear vest. The best fits from designers like Proenza Schouler, DKNY, and Phi were perfect—either very Lauren Hutton'esque '70s or a more Out of Africa safari look. Either way, we're into it. From left: DKNY, Proenza Schouler, Phi
3. Tribal Jewels— It was a Big season for necklaces, and by Big we mean a few designers went for more tribal-inspired pendants and pouches—some simply beaded and others suspended from the chunkiest chains or ropes resembled clusters of abstract geometrics or nosegays. From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim, VPL, United Bamboo, Vera Wang
4. Sheer Energy— Black hose in spring/summer? Apparently, a memo made the rounds because Poltock & Walsh, Marc Jacobs, and Noir all added sheer noir pantyhose to their repertoire. We loved how it directly diluted up the ever-popular black legging and made another reference to the season's unseasonable coolness. From left: Noir, Derek Lam, Marc Jacobs, Noir
5. The Unstructured Blazer— Maybe it's still an '80s thing, but we love the ease and gender-bending attitude of the soft, unstructured blazer. More like a classic than a trend, the best options like those from Preen and Alexander Wang, went long and loose, some without any closures at all. From left: Preen, Alexander Wang, Phi
6. Watercolor Wonderlands— Sort of a fitting salute to springtime, Zac Posen, Jeremy Laing, and Josh Goot among others all took a swipe at washed out strokes of pinks, blues, and yellows on charmeuse shifts and wispy garden dresses. From left: Rodarte, Zac Posen, Josh Goot, Jeremy Laing
7. Hot Tomatoes— Despite the repeat of last seasons' obsession with cobalt blue and canary yellow, we're all about the hot tomato: a warm, spicy shade of lipstick red. In just a shot (3.1 Phillip Lim's leather motorcycle jacket) or head-to-toe (Ohne Titel's amazing silk suit), it's a hot color practically everyone will look good in. From left: Alexander Wang, Tim Hamilton, Peter Som, 3.1 Phillip Lim
8. Hat Trick— Some form of head gear is always a summer staple, but this season designers banished the fedora for big, floppy sun hats, bucket styles, and the introduction of a cute, wearable bowler. From left: Karen Walker, Yigal Azrouel, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Naoki Takizawa
9. Lab Coats— It could be an extension of the unstructured blazer, but the easy, oversized almost paper-like white coats we saw at Berardi and Preen had the effect of a cool blast of fresh air. We want them! From left: Berardi, Preen
10. The Modest Crop Top— Yes, it's slightly vulgar, but there was something in the way that Doo.Ri, Rodarte, and Phillip Lim all bared the belly that was surprisingly tasteful. From left: Doo.ri, Rodarte, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Marc Jacobs
11. Contrast Colors— Bold concentrated colors came back with a bang…again. But this season, a few of the more daring designers matched them up creating a new spin on vintage preppy. From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Y-3
12. Blushing Belles— As an alternative to strong shades, a few designers took a shine to pale, blush pinks. The trick to avoiding the saccharine side? Black tights and cinched leather belts like those at Karen Walker. From left: Karen Walker, Ports 1961, Preen, Karen Walker
13. The New Plaid— Gingham, gingham, gingham. We loved this picnic-perfect plaid, especially from Yigal Azrouel, Tibi, and Patrik Ervell, who all made this country-cool pattern exceedingly chic. From left: Staerk, Trovata, Tibi, Marc by Marc Jacobs
14. Paper Chase— Crafted like feathers or tiny wisps of cut paper, the textural application from designers like Bruce, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Alexander Wang had an almost sculptural 3-D effect that looked beautiful in motion. From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Bruce, Alexander Wang
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Our favorite trends from New York Fashion Week.