6 Ways To Recession-Proof Your Hair Color, Straight From The Pros

Hair color trends are famously lighthearted. We ask for “sun-kissed” highlights or a “cool” blonde base. But in this economy, colorists are sensing a vibe shift. The trend about to hit your group chat? Recession hair.

“I’ve started to hear from more and more people wanting to stretch the length between appointments and lean into low-maintenance looks,” explains Natalie Rotger, a colorist at Jenna Perry Hair Studio in New York. Not only does this approach create a more natural, effortless style, but it helps color clients save money by reducing the frequency of salon visits. For context, even partial balayage can cost upwards of $150 in New York City (a half-head of foils could easily be twice that), and with costs rising across the board, it makes sense that people are looking to scale back their hair appointments. 

For many people, going from blonde to a natural shade of brown is an aesthetic choice rather than a penny-pinching one: “I know everyone is talking about ‘recession hair’ now, but I think Hailey Bieber started this [trend] years ago,” says Rotger. “Once she stopped highlighting and started going darker, so many of my blondes did the same thing — or started to embrace their natural color a lot more.”

Leaning into a more natural hair color is certainly a more affordable option, but it’s not the only way to save money. Ahead, color experts tell us exactly how to stretch longer between appointments (don't just ghost) and inch closer to your natural shade in a way that feels expensive. Follow their tips ahead — and don't call it recession hair.

Yes, your grocery bill is astronomically high, but ghosting your colorist is not a long-term strategy — it's an avoidance tactic. Instead, get ahead of your fears and have a vulnerable conversation about financial planning with your colorist. You can do this at your next appointment. When you’re sitting down with your colorist and they ask, “What are you thinking?” give an honest answer. Maybe you say, “I’d love to be a bit blonder this summer, but I’m concerned about the upkeep cost. My budget will only allow for two color appointments this year — can we work together to develop a plan?” 

Your colorist wants to help. “When a colorist knows your goals and your budget, they can suggest [a color plan] that will make you feel great,” explains NYC-based colorist Julie Fortiz. “Custom color is very thoughtful and can be budget-friendly if done right,” she adds. Plus, they're living in this economy too, so they get it.

It sounds simple, but plan your hair color around your life, not the other way around: “Make a game plan,” suggests Rotger. “Think about specific events in your life — like a wedding, birthday, or vacation. Work backwards from there.” Put on a playlist, get out your calendar, and plan your color appointments around the most important dates. You'll probably see a few months-long blocks that are safe skips. 

If you're blonde and want to transition to a low-maintenance brunette, there's a pretty simple playbook: Let your natural color grow in as much as possible, then go in for a tint-back service. The tint-back is a series of glosses that match your previously-highlighted hair to your root color so there's no demarcation. “After that, there’s little to no maintenance,” explains Rotger. “After a few months, maybe you can add a little face-framing highlight,” she adds, but once you've successfully transitioned your hair, you're in full control of your color budget.

While a hair gloss won't brighten your hair (only bleach can do that), it will add incredible shine, which can have a highlight-like effect: “Glossing treatments go a long way,” says Fortiz. “They can make highlights or dyed hair a little sparklier and stretch out your visits to the salon.”

Some even have hair benefits beyond depositing color to cover grays or root growth, and adding shine. For example, Redken Shades EQ Gloss is infused with strengthening wheat amino acids and bonder technology to repair hair damaged by bleach, heat, or environmental aggressors. Most salons carry Redken Shades EQ, so it might be worth asking your colorist if they would consider it for your next appointment.

A hair gloss costs, on average, $50 to $100, while a full color service might be three or four times that. There are also at-home options. “A tinted conditioner is nice because it works like a baby gloss at home,” explains Fortiz. She likes the Davines Alchemic Conditioner, $37, and the Christophe Robin Shade Variation Mask, $53, for their shade ranges. 

“A lot of people think coloring is what makes your hair dry — and it can — but it’s really the constant at-home heat styling that fries your hair,” explains Rotger. If you want to stretch a little longer between color appointments and avoid crunchy ends, you'd be wise to reduce your heat styling and opt for air-drying where you can this summer.

Rotger’s go-to air-dry products are Crown Affair Leave-In Conditioner, $48, for all hair types, Rōz Milk Hair Serum, $52, which boasts added heat protection, and Color Wow Dream Coat Anti-Frizz Treatment for Curly Hair, $42.

If you don’t want to give up heat styling or even cut back, make sure you’re taking precautions to protect your hair. First, always use a heat-protecting spray. Unite Hair's 7SECONDS Detangler, $40.50, is a failsafe option, offering frizz control and heat protection. Second, use your blowdryer on low heat, and diffuse on low heat if you have curls. Lastly, consider air-drying to 90%, then hitting the hair with low heat to dry any damp strands and add polish.

Colorists agree you don’t need expensive or extraneous hair products — not in this economy. Beyond a simple conditioner and heat protectant, consider a color-safe shampoo. This is important because it will be made with gentle cleansing ingredients free of harsh sulfates that could strip color quickly. “If there’s one thing you’re going to invest in, it’s a color-safe shampoo,” echoes Rotger. Our favorites include the Color Wow Security Shampoo, $24, Amika Bust Your Brass Shampoo, $28, and the L'Oréal EverPure Hydrating Shampoo, $9.99. You can safely skip the clarifying or detox treatments, especially post-color. Often with hair products, the adage holds: Less is more.