I Dropped Prescription Skincare When I Found This $15 Retinal Serum

Until a few weeks ago, I was faithfully using a prescription retinoid recommended by a trusted dermatologist — and my skin had never looked worse. My first mistake was assuming that, having used retinol before, I wouldn’t experience the harsh side effects of a stronger formula. But when my skin wouldn’t stop peeling, my breakouts got worse, and I was almost out of the tube, I knew something was off. So when The Inkey List’s new Advanced 0.2% Retinal landed on my desk, promising a fast yet gentle experience for retinoid users, I knew I had to give it a try. 

Without getting all lab-coat on you (and before I get into the nitty gritty), it helps to know the difference between retinal — the star ingredient in The Inkey List’s new serum — and retinol. Both are members of the retinoid family, but they work a little differently.  

Esthetician Alicia Lartey previously explained to R29 that when retinol is applied to the skin, it goes through several steps before being converted into retinoic acid, which triggers all the amazing skin benefits, like improving texture and tone, minimizing fine lines by boosting collagen production, and reducing breakouts by renewing skin cells. Retinal, on the other hand, requires fewer steps to become retinoic acid, so it works faster — 11 times faster, according to The Inkey List. It’s the retinal that gives this serum its striking yellow color, but don’t worry — it hasn’t gone bad, and though it’s a little reminiscent of a turmeric face mask, it absorbs instantly and won’t stain your skin. I can vouch for that.  

Even better, The Inkey List’s retinal is encapsulated, meaning it’s wrapped in tiny moisturizing molecules that release it gradually into the skin. This way, you get all the benefits of a high-powered ingredient with far less irritation — no soreness or painfully dry, flaky patches here.  

Just when I thought this product couldn’t get any smarter, it also features 1% symsitive, a soothing ingredient that supports the skin barrier (the outer layer that keeps moisture in and bacteria out). This is a relief, as retinoids can easily damage the skin barrier if used incorrectly or too often. Plus, there’s 2% sirtalice, an algae-derived ingredient that helps firm the skin in minutes, making it appear juicy and plump.  

— Features 0.2% encapsulated retinal, a high-strength ingredient that works faster than retinol with minimal irritation. 

— Targets dark spots, rough skin texture, fine lines, and breakouts. 

— Designed for evening use: two to three times a week at first. 

I’ve been using Advanced 0.2% Retinal for a few weeks now (a pea-sized amount three nights a week, right after cleansing and before a simple moisturizer), and my skin is already much happier. It’s clearer, bouncier, smoother in texture, and more even in tone, thanks to the retinal helping minimize the red marks left behind by breakouts. Here, I’m wearing a light touch of concealer and blush, and can comfortably skip foundation.

With my skin feeling less dry, the fine lines under my eyes and across my forehead have eased up, too. I even bring it down my neck to help zap the occasional hormonal zit. My neck is the first place to feel sensitive when I use retinoids because the skin is thinner here, but so far, I’ve not experienced any irritation. 

It’s a lightweight serum, so you’ll want to make sure the moisturizer you apply on top in the evening is fairly simple and doesn’t contain high-strength actives like exfoliating acids. Good options include Tower 28 SOS Daily Skin Barrier Redness Recovery Moisturizer or The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + Hyaluronic Acid. I’m also a fan of The Inkey List’s Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer. 

My top tip for anyone using this serum is to continue using a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen in the daytime because retinoids make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Yep, even in the fall and winter months. 

You can always count on The Inkey List not to leave anyone out, and there’s good news for retinoid beginners, too. Alongside its buzzy new retinal, the brand has also unveiled a Starter Retinol Serum, just as affordable at $14. With 1% granactive retinoid (a gentler, also encapsulated form) and 0.01% retinal, it’s kinder on sensitive skin — even for those with rosacea — thanks to additional soothing ingredients like glycerin and symrelief 100 (made from chamomile and ginger root). While it’s pretty new, the five-star reviews speak for themselves. 

You can buy The Inkey List’s Advanced 0.2% Retinal and Starter Retinol Serum from Sephora.com or join the waitlist on the brand’s website.