This season, Jeff Halmos and Sam Shipley took their line—which has been in turns classically American, preppie, and glamorous—toward something more dark, mature, even European. Jet-blacks used in high-sheen dresses and motorcycle jackets dominated the first half of the show, while the use of camel velvets, a beautiful lavender, and clever geometric-print knitted dresses added some color toward the end. Simple but dramatic black turtlenecks and catsuits connected everything from mini-dresses to tailored suits to the menswear, which was somber but elegant, too. Overall, it was a sharp, dark, and new direction for our old faves. And the modernist Philip Crangi-designed jewelry (as well as the dreamy Thom Yorke playlist) only added to the spare but decisive message.