Greatest Hits: New York

The top looks and trends from NYC's week in fashion. By Christene Barberich & Piera Gelardi
In a lot of ways, it was a week of fall fashion that we're all likely to remember. While the celeb quotient barely registered (save Madonna's Gucci party), the collections from some of our favorite designers and recent newcomers delivered the real star quality. We loved the gutsy exploration of separates, the new sort of modern femininity, the decadent mash-up of prints, and the exuberant use of off-season fabrics and shades (thanks, Marc). As always, there was plenty that didn't appeal, too. But we prefer to focus on the positive…and all the looks we'll be pining for next fall.
1. Grown-up Grunge—We're not big fans of jumping on the band-wagon, but the nod to grunge this season could not be denied. However, it was the more glamorous interpretations delivered by Preen and Yigal Azrouel that revealed the real nirvana. Pairing big, bulky plaids with a sensuous silky jumper or giving it up in a sexy sheers seemed to hit the mark in a modern way. For guys, the look worked with a thoughtful play on layering (none of that rolling-out-of-bed thing). From left: Preen, Yigal Azrouel, Preen, Y-3
2. Rich Pumpkin—Every season it's a new shade du jour, and next fall/winter is all about a spicy shade of pumpkin. In shimmery satins and silks, this new shade of burnt orange looks lush and un-trendy. We'll be wearing it. From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Karen Walker, Halston
3. The New Gold—On the heels of the bolder autumn-ready orange, our second-favorite shade was a soft gold, a more modern spin on camel and perhaps the perfect neutral for mixing with all the black in our closets. From left: Donna Karan, DKNY, Ohne Titel
4. Bandleader Jackets—Strike up the band…and that sharply tailored take on the military theme we've been seeing season to season. Something about all those gold buttons makes us want to stand up straight and throw our shoulders way back. From left: Temperley, Robert Geller, Rag & Bone
5. Leather Trousers—Damn! We're not big leather lovers, but these slouchy trousers are insanely tempting not to mention flattering. We adored Marc's gun-metal gray version and Tim Hamilton even gave his a sweat-pant cut…brilliant. From left: Marc Jacobs, Tim Hamilton, Preen
6. Artsy Acid Wash—Ahh, Karen Walker. Season after season, we can count on the daring New Zealander to bring us something truly cool and covetable. These acid-wash pants skip the retro and go right for the purely modern, and they definitely feel in keeping with the marbleized print we loved at Jil Sander, too. From left: Karen Walker, Karen Walker
7. Track and Outdoorsy Pants—The infatuation with athletic-inspired trousers hit new high notes for fall, and a few of them looked particularly fresh and appealing, including re-invented cargos, evening track pants, and sweat-pant style climbing trousers—the epitome of cool and comfy. From left: Yigal Azrouel, Tim Hamilton
8. Emerald City—Yes, Green is Good. As long as it's this completely perfect, dramatic shade of deep forest emerald. Proenza Schouler's take was triumph. From left: Proenza Schoueler, Three ASFOUR, Doo.Ri, Malandrino
9. Pastel Perfection—Marc, Marc, Marc. While his wanton use of springish pastels and exaggerated blousson shapes wasn't entirely wearable, it made us forget all about the boundaries of fashion's seasonal expectations. In his world, anything goes. And it usually works in wondrous ways. From left: Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Marc Jacobs
10. Flight Suits—The slinky jumpsuits of season's past have taken a more militaristic route this season…and we're loving them. Once again, Yigal and Alex Wang got it just right. From left: Yigal Azrouel, Alexander Wang
11. Satin Dress Pants—References to the '70s have been turning up less and less, but we're loving the ever-so-subtle nod to Studio 54 in these modified silky trousers. Paired with Alexander Wang's boxy blazer or Phillip Lim's short cropped jacket and knee-high boots, these pants are no doubt millennial perfection. From left: Alexander Wang, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Zac Posen
12. Layered Lapels—Give us a big bold lapel any day. Alternately, though, we're digging fall's softer, more feminine offering with delicate, face-framing collars and pretty relaxed lapels. From left: Proenza Schoueler, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Yigal Azrouel
13. Knit Wit—We totally love the return to sweater-dressing and oversized knits, but we're even more in love with the brazen mash-up of in-your-face knits. Somehow, in all its technicolor insanity, it works. From left: DKNY, Ohne Titel, DKNY
14. Golden Oldie—Bold gold turned up in a lot of shows, but our favorite sightings we're the ones in brilliant brocade. A little granny-chic and a whole lot glamorous. Who doesn't want that 3.1 Phillip Lim coat? From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim, DKNY, Daughters by Obedient Sons
15. Little Edie Returns—Everyone's favorite eccentric was present at many a runway show this season. Fur collars (despite frowning upon them), grannie brocades, and Coco jackets with opulent accessorizing (read: funny hats) all turned up in one form or another at Jenni Kayne, Rachel Roy, and Chris Benz. A little nutty, but done right, it's très chic. From left: Boy by Band of Outsiders, Tim Hamilton, Chris Benz, Jenni Kayne
Images via Tim Hamilton images courtesy of Tim Hamilton.
The top looks and trends from NYC's week in fashion.

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