I Tried The £20 Serum Said To Rival Professional Facials — & It’s Impressive

It’s rare for beauty editors to get so excited about a product that it dominates our conversations for weeks, but that’s exactly what happens when something truly special cuts through the many samples we receive. More often than not, the products generating the most buzz aren’t backed by celebrities or sold at eye-watering prices. Case in point: The Inkey List’s Exosome Hydro Glow Complex, £20.

If exosomes ring a bell, you’ve probably heard about them from a dermatologist, aesthetician or facialist. That’s because this special skincare ingredient is typically reserved for luxury facials and high-end treatments, often touted as a “miracle” for plumping, repairing and rejuvenating the skin. In London, for example, a facial containing exosomes can cost upwards of £350.

That’s what makes The Inkey List’s new serum seriously special. It contains three million plant-derived exosomes, clinically proven to boost collagen, the protein that gives skin its strength and suppleness, by an impressive 300%. Better still, it’s a snip of the price at £20. But what exactly are exosomes? And why are skincare enthusiasts, experts and editors so obsessed with them?

Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London, explains that exosomes are naturally produced by our cells and act as messengers, transferring strengthening proteins, moisturising lipids and genetic material between them: “In skincare, they are believed to promote skin regeneration, reduce inflammation and support collagen and elastin production,” says Dr Mahto — two key components that help maintain skin’s firmness and elasticity. 

Exosomes can be derived from humans and animals, but in the UK, strict skincare safety regulations prohibit the use of these due to safety concerns. As a result, exosome-based skincare products available on the market are typically derived from plants, and these are safe to use, provided the brand is reputable and complies with UK and EU law. The exosomes in The Inkey List’s serum come from centella asiatica, aka cica. This plant has been used for centuries in Traditional Chinese Medicine and is a popular ingredient in many skincare products for its ability to reduce redness and inflammation. 

As you might expect, plant-derived exosomes offer a range of skincare advantages. “The potential benefits [of exosomes] include improved skin texture, hydration and reduced signs of ageing,” says Dr Mahto — think fewer fine lines and wrinkles. While promising, Dr Mahto notes that research into the long-term effectiveness of exosomes is still evolving.

They could even offer more benefits than we currently understand.

Besides exosomes, this serum boasts hydrating hyaluronic acid and ectoin, which lock in moisture and support the skin barrier. There’s also Q10, an antioxidant that shields skin against environmental aggressors like dulling pollution, not to mention skin-repairing tripeptide-1. It sounds impressive on paper, but how does it hold up IRL? Firstly, I love the silky texture, which absorbs quickly and leaves my skin feeling fresh and matte, not sticky. I’ve been using this serum every evening for a month, after cleansing and before moisturising, and I’ve received countless compliments on my newfound glow. 

That's not all. Last week, I visited Self London for a VISIA skin scan, which assesses the health of your skin in granular detail. The clinician asked if I’d had any recent facials or laser treatments since my skin was impressively plump: “You’ve got great skin structure,” she told me. Besides using an antioxidant serum in the morning and applying a broad-spectrum SPF 50, whether I leave the house or not, I have to assume that this serum is behind my increased collagen and elastin levels. Since using it, I'm also convinced the fine lines under my eyes have softened, as have the two once-prominent frown lines between my eyebrows.

Don’t just take my word for it. Head to Space NK and you’ll spot hundreds of reviews, many five-star, highlighting even skin tone and smoother, firmer skin over time.

Who needs expensive treatments when it seems topical exosomes are just as good? Or are they? Dr Mahto says that topical exosome products may offer some benefits, such as hydration and mild rejuvenation, but their effectiveness is limited by the skin barrier, the outermost layer of skin, which can hinder penetration. “Professional exosome treatments, often delivered via microneedling or injectables, allow deeper delivery directly into the skin, potentially producing more visible results,” says Dr Mahto. “On the other hand, topical treatments can only go so far.”

According to The Inkey List, its cica-derived exosomes are so tiny, not to mention compatible with the skin and its natural processes, that they can “effectively penetrate the surface layers of the skin and act quickly and effectively without microneedling.”

But here’s the thing with exosomes: they can be unstable. “They are delicate biological structures sensitive to heat, light and oxidation,” explains Dr Mahto, essentially exposure to air. She continues, “To maintain their integrity and efficacy, exosome-containing products often require refrigeration or specific storage conditions.” Dr Mahto adds that some formulations containing exosomes are freeze-dried to improve stability at room temperature, but this varies by manufacturer. “Without appropriate storage, exosomes may degrade, rendering the product less effective,” she says.

With that in mind, I contacted The Inkey List to confirm the best way to store the serum. The brand told me that it doesn’t need refrigeration, but that it should preferably be stored in a cool, dark place, out of direct sunlight. The airtight packaging helps keep the ingredients effective for longer. Some people have reported issues with the pump, but I find it easy to use, as long as I store the serum upright.

If exosomes have piqued your interest but the idea of dropping hundreds of pounds on one single treatment makes you squirm, this affordable serum might be your ticket. For even better results, team it with a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen.