In September, when Fendi named Dior menswear designer Kim Jones its new artistic director, we knew his debut show for the Italian house would be a spectacle. And it was, with many of fashion’s most recognisable models brought out for the runway show on Wednesday.
For Fendi’s spring ‘21 haute couture show, which took place at Palais Brongniart in Paris, the designer tapped original supermodels like Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, and Christy Turlington to showcase the collection. Modelling an array of metallic evening gowns and suits, they were joined by current favourites, including Cara Delevingne, Bella Hadid, and Adwoa Aboah.
The designer also invited friends and family of the models, as well as those close to him and the brand, to join the star-studded cast for the show. Moss’s daughter Lila, who made her runway debut at Miu Miu’s show in Paris last October, modelled a sheer, studded gown, with high-rise underwear below and knee-high boots. The look mirrored her mother’s in shine: a strapless, graphite-coloured gown, which was paired with a short-sleeved bolero — a big trend this season — and statement earrings. Aboah’s sister Kesewa and Turlington’s nephew James also joined, making it a true family affair.
"Fendi represents artisanal quality of the highest order, and it is all about family,” Jones said in the show notes. “It is in its third generation with a Fendi at its helm, and I am guest starring while bringing in the fourth. Here, I am surrounded by strong, powerful women who I love and respect, and want to bring their energy into what I do.”
Closing out the model roster was actress Demi Moore, a friend of Jones’, as well as Leonetta Fendi and Delfina Delettrez, Silvia Venturini Fendi’s two daughters. (Jones took the place of Venturini Fendi as artistic director, though, she still serves as artistic director of accessories and menswear.)
According to the show notes, the collection's main inspiration was Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, the 1928 novel that also inspired the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute’s 2020 exhibition, “About Time: Fashion and Duration.” The 10-minute show featured an array of red carpet-worthy gowns, as well as more casual suits, which Jones designed after observing “the reality of what women around [him] were wearing,” according to Vogue. Shades of grey, silver, black, and white dominated the collection.
Given that his goal was to design a collection “reactive to the time we’re living in,” the muted scheme felt all the more appropriate, as did the slow-moving, leisurely atmosphere of Jones’ debut.