Since joining Burberry earlier this year, Riccardo Tisci has slowly but surely been adding his own touch to the British heritage label. In August, the designer introduced the first major shift in brand visuals: a new logo created in collaboration with British graphic designer and art director Peter Saville. Then, earlier this month, he announced that Burberry would no longer burn £28 million worth of excess clothing and cosmetics (a baffling concept in the first place). Finally, though, came the moment the industry was waiting for: his debut collection as creative director.
On Monday, Tisci presented his first offering for the label — a collection that felt more old school Burberry with classic trenches, ladylike pencil skirts, and pussy-bow blouses. It was demure and, frankly, a little stuffy, a stark departure from the plastic raincoats, oversized statement earrings and rainbow capes that came just a season or so ago. “That’s what fashion should be” Tisci said backstage, according to The Cut. “You can dress the mother, dress the daughter. We have so many stores. Why give just one identity?”
But who exactly then is the woman Tisci is trying to dress? One guess is whomever will buy the product. The collection veered so commercial it's hard not to wonder if that's the sort of design direction he received from the powers that be. Still, it's hard to judge the complete vision of a creative director after just one season, and while we may not be totally sold on Tisci for Burberry just yet, we are optimistic he'll find his footing. The foundation for a well-rounded direction is there — suiting, separates, sportswear — all it needs is a little finessing.