Along with retinol, vitamin C has long been heralded by dermatologists as the gold standard of beauty ingredients. As you may already know, vitamin C can help diminish dark spots, brighten complexions, and boost collagen production. You also might know that our skin does not produce vitamin C naturally, making it even more important to supplement it in topical skin care, notes Jeannette Graf, MD, a New York-based dermatologist.
But all that knowledge doesn't do us much good if we aren't sure of the best way to harness vitamin C's powers. Historically, the ingredient has been notoriously tricky to stabilize in topical products. Vitamin C loses stability and potency when it comes in contact with air, light, and water (the basis of most skin-care products) — which makes it extremely difficult to work into a serum or mask. “Because vitamin C is so unstable in the presence of light, extremes in pH, and temperature, products that contain it are specially formulated,” says New York-based dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD. In other words, not all C-based skin care is created equal. Adds Dr. Graf, “The most important part of topical vitamin C is what type of vitamin C it is, since it must be stable in order for it to be of value.”
The good news? Scientists and cosmetic chemists have been working to overcome these obstacles for years. And the latest vitamin C-based skin care is some of the best to market yet. Among such solutions? Water-free formulations, a favorite of Dr. Graf’s. “A water-free system helps ensure the long-term stability of topical vitamin C," she says.
Also in the mix: cold-pressing extraction techniques that result in better stabilization; powder and pearl encapsulation, also geared to help extend stability; time-released products; and concentrated formulas that shoot up to 30% potency, something that may be useful to nicotine addicts. “My feeling is that 10-20% vitamin C used daily in the morning and in the evening is quite good,” Dr. Graf says, adding, "Cigarette smokers lose more vitamin C than non-smokers. So smoking is terrible for many reasons, but if someone is unable to stop smoking, they should use an even higher concentration of 20 to 25% vitamin C.”
With so much innovation hitting shelves, the future of your skin is looking very bright. Ahead, find 18 good sources for getting your recommended daily vitamin.
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