Day four of London Fashion Week AW19 saw some of the schedule's biggest hitters take to the catwalks: Roksanda Ilincic with her mastery of colour, Erdem Moralioglu with his breathtaking delicacy, Christopher Kane with his fresh and hardened take on glamour. But it was also a fantastic day for London's less established designers. Richard Malone, who is fast becoming one of the city's most thrilling talents, presented sustainable party wear, while Supriya Lele, who showed for the second time outside of the umbrella NewGen scheme, looked to the matriarchs of her family for inspiration.
And then there was Rejina Pyo. She may not be emerging – the designer celebrates half a decade of her label this year – but she certainly feels fresh in that over the past few years, all eyes, minds and hearts have been only on her. Pyo's SS17 collection broke her into the Insta-sphere and public consciousness, and from there it's been nothing but wild success.
Now that her directional accessories have been (ahem) imitated by every retailer on the high street, and her puff-sleeved dresses worn by every editor and influencer in the industry, what was in store for AW19?
Drawing inspiration from the "human resilience and individual's presence" portrayed in the documentary photography of artist Lisette Model, Pyo sought to create a collection that would last: honouring our clothes' duty to "cover, protect, enrich and endure us" while looking to a time when clothing was "cherished, worn and preserved through generations".
Timeless pieces featured – think checked coats, silk dresses and power suits, all of which you could imagine being handed down from mother to daughter – but her signature ability to spin of-the-moment items was there, too. Brown patent leather coats, skirts and trousers were real standouts, as were the slouched snakeskin boots, while her use of colour is particularly brilliant, with powder blues paired with refreshing lilacs, sorbet yellows and grown-up blushes.
Another of Pyo's strong suits is her accessories offering, and this season we had plenty to lust after. The newest and most playful shape was a loaf of bread bag, which, quite literally, looks like a slice of toast, while her XXL totes were carried underarm and handily fit equally XXL puffer jackets.
This practicality is what draws us most to Pyo: she creates gorgeous pieces, from silk skirts to statement dresses, with none of the fussiness that so often restricts the women wearing them. Pyo nails the everyday, but somehow makes it oh-so-special.