The Cult Label Your Favourite Riot Grrrls Are Wearing

Photo courtesy of X-Girl and Dover Street Market
2019 has been a stellar year for riot grrrls everywhere. Kathleen Hanna-fronted pioneers Bikini Kill played two raucous London shows in June, Sleater-Kinney released their St. Vincent-produced ninth album The Centre Won't Hold this month, and Sonic Youth's Kim Gordon announced her first solo album, No Home Record, delighting rebellious women the world over.
Now, X-Girl, the streetwear label established by Gordon and stylist Daisy von Furth back in 1994, has teamed up with Dover Street Market London to launch a collaborative collection with cult artist Frank Kozik.
Photo courtesy of X-Girl and Dover Street Market
Photo courtesy of X-Girl and Dover Street Market
X-Girl, which began as an offshoot of LA men's streetwear brand XLARGE, operated between 1993 and '98, with the raddest women on the New York scene wearing the label's fitted antidote to the baggy skater style of the time: ringer tees, sleeveless A-line dresses, miniskirts and tank tops.
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In 1994, soon after the New Yorker hailed her "the coolest girl in the world", Chloë Sevigny fronted a shoot for X-Girl and in 1995 appeared in the brand's nouvelle vague-esque short film/ video lookbook (complete with a Marc Jacobs catwalk show, a young Leo DiCaprio, and Chloë sporting the best bowl cut we've ever seen).
Photo courtesy of X-Girl and Dover Street Market
X-Girl's debut catwalk show was anything but traditional. Gordon and Von Furth's pals Sofia Coppola and Spike Jonze hosted a guerilla-style strut down the streets of Soho, with the audience – including Zoe Cassavetes, Dinosaur Jr. and Stella Tennant – a snapshot of NYC's movers and shakers.
From 1998 onwards, X-Girl enjoyed burgeoning success in Japan, but original fans were thrilled when a 2016 collaboration between Gordon and Erin Magee of MadeMe injected some riot grrrl energy back into the brand with a campaign fronted by Gordon and Thurston Moore's daughter Coco.
Photo courtesy of X-Girl and Dover Street Market
Photo courtesy of X-Girl and Dover Street Market
Since then, X-Girl has paid homage to its '90s roots. This year – the label's 25th anniversary – has seen the revival of several items first sold back in 1994. "We're working on projects that look back on the origin of the brand, and we wanted to work with Frank Kozik – a prominent figure in '90s street culture – for that reason," a brand rep told Refinery29.
American graphic artist Kozik is most famous for his boldly coloured album sleeve designs for the likes of Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Soundgarden, Red Hot Chili Peppers and Butthole Surfers. The collection, dropping at Dover Street Market London today, features experimental motifs developed by Kozik, alongside the X-Girl bunny icon and face logo, on babydoll dresses and tees in three colourways. Just add stomping boots and a bass guitar, and you're ready to riot.
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Photo courtesy of X-Girl and Dover Street Market
X-Girl will be at Dover Street Market London from 30th August to 13th September.
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