Been There, Done That? Canggu Evolves With You — If You’ll Let It

When I visited Canggu in 2022, I had just come out of a relationship, a job and two on-and-off years of COVID lockdowns. I was ready to make up for the few years of missed opportunities, and the (slightly) younger, 31-year-old version of myself liked to have alcohol in pursuit of such memories — we're talking a 12-hour session at FINNS Beach Club, dancing on tables at Luigi's, and even (briefly) considering a tattoo at Sandbar.

Without sounding preachy or like I'm now "above" this kind of trip (I'm not), a booze-filled week is just not the type of holiday I'm after anymore. Over the last few years, I've started prioritising my fitness and eating habits, and alcohol can be a real hiccup for me and this progress. But does this mean I've outgrown Canggu, somewhere people are known to go and party? When I had the chance to return this year, I figured it could be a good way to find out — and also to challenge myself in the process. My mission was clear: it wasn't about abstaining completely, but about feeling balanced and like I could really have it both ways, even in a place as tempting as Canggu.

Always one to dive in headfirst, FINNS beach club in Berawa was my first real test. The day club is one of the biggest and most notorious in Bali, and whether you’re staying closeby in the neighbouring Canggu or not, FINNS is something you make the Gojek trip for — it’s basically a tourist attraction at this point. Arriving bang on the opening time at 11 am (I figured the earlier I got there, the earlier I'd be in bed), I was pleasantly surprised to find that, like me, even FINNS is growing up.

Since I was there last, the venue has opened up a new pink Garden Party section filled with more daybeds and picnic tables, and, more importantly, has kicked off a new sustainability initiative and ESG strategies. The Future Nation project includes Bali's first Search and Rescue helicopter, as well as a beach-cleaning robot that sifts sand to remove debris such as cigarette butts, bottle caps, plastic shards and microplastics.

The robot, called BeBot, appears to be the first used at a Bali beach club (following its deployment at hotels like Hyatt Regency Bali), hopefully setting a precedent for other tourism industry players. Because Bali’s pollution is a huge problem — the island produces roughly 1.6 million tonnes of waste each year — with 3.5 times more waste from tourists than locals. FINNS clearly knows it's contributing to this problem, but it's also aware of the responsibility to do something about it, which, frankly, every tourist-driven company on the island should, especially those run by expats. While yes, I've changed since I last visited Bali, it was quickly apparent that so has the island itself.

But the personal challenge was far from over. I stayed at Como Uma Canggu, figuring the nicer the hotel, the more likely I was to spend time at it, as opposed to staying out drinking and getting sucked into a pretty tempting vortex. It was also the perfect way to be a part of everything, without actually needing to take part in it. For example, one of COMO Uma's pools and restaurants is right on the beach, meaning you can relax, eat or drink on the sidelines without having to be in the thick of it. Canggu can be busy — so, as someone who likes the vibe but can get overwhelmed by hordes of people, people-watching in the comfort of my own hotel was bang-on. This really helped transform my Canggu experience for me, as in the past I have had no reason to go back to my accommodation — instead staying up well past my newfound bedtime.

COMO Uma also had inclusive wellness activities, so I jumped right on the Suspend Fitness Training — which, wildly enough, was the morning after FINNS. Yes, FINNS was and still is a party destination, but I still had a good time (and drank quite a few alcoholic drinks, mind you) and was able to avoid hangovers and maintain balance in the process.

Whether you're going to the "world's best beach club" for five hours and doing group fitness the next morning, or perhaps you're spending your day at a yoga retreat and polishing it off with a boozy dinner, this trip made me realise that balance in Canggu is possible. You don't have to sacrifice one element for the other. This might sound obvious to people who've always been able to strike that wonderful, happy medium, but for me, it was a real test. And one, with the right strategy, I was able to pass with flying colours.

But what I noticed is that it wasn't just the party elements of Canggu that acted as a thorn in my side — I had such a "been there, done that" mentality about the area. I felt like, having spent several weeks there before, I'd seen everything I needed to see and eaten everywhere I needed to try. During this trip, almost everywhere I ate, I'd never been to before. Again — I wanted to eat better, healthier and had more disposable income to do so. Yes, I went back to FINNS and Times Beach Warung, but I ordered differently. The realisation was simple, you can't have the same trip if you're not the same person. And with a bit of time in between visits, any of us rarely are.

My biggest misconception about Canggu was one of my own creating. Just because I experienced it one way a few years ago, it doesn't mean there weren't others experiencing the coastal village in a completely different way at the exact same time. You can go to Canggu without going to Luigi's and Vault. There are plenty of other places to eat that aren't Crate. It's basically what corner of the pjhysical algorithm you find yourself in. Canggu is ultimately what you make of it, what you keep your mind open to, and where you're at in your life. It would be silly to write it off just because it evokes a certain version of yourself. Why not rewrite it instead?