Last week, both in the hallowed halls of the New York Public Library and projected on the exterior walls of Bergdorf Goodman, Marc Jacobs revealed his autumn ‘21 collection. It was the first major IRL fashion show in New York since the pandemic took hold, and Jacobs’ first in two seasons, having opted out of digital runways in the last year.
“On the journey back to doing what we love most, in the wake of immeasurable loss, loneliness, fear, anxiety, and uncertainty, I am reminded of why creativity is so vital to our existence. To life,” the designer stated in the show notes. “Through the physicality of this shared experience, I hope to offer a moment of inspiration, curiosity, wonder, and possibility.”
The stars of the 69-look collection were the gowns. But they weren’t just any gowns. This season, Jacobs designed a bevvy of sleeping bag-esque dresses that put last winter’s puffer coat selection to shame. The look extended to the accessories: Down hoods and shawls draped behind models like Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber as they walked the runway, almost unrecognisable behind the pillow-y fabric draping their bodies.
But it wasn’t all cocoon fashion. Also included in the collection were Mod ensembles. The latter half of the show saw models shedding their layers, and opting instead for iridescent dresses made of oversized chain mail-like materials, which were paired with elbow-length leather gloves and sky-high platform Mary-Janes. Others donned backless, cut-out turtlenecks with retro-patterned skirts and Twiggy-esque faux eyelashes.
Jacobs’ autumn ‘21 collection was a sign of the times, featuring fashion that works for those who aren’t quite ready for the world to open up again, and those who simply cannot wait.
See all the looks, below.