When Emma Corrin walked down the runway for Miu Miu this February wearing a teeny, tiny pair of crystal-covered, gold underwear, I had one thought: "Here we go."
There is no doubt that Miu Miu is a pioneer in the fashion industry and often, where Miu Miu leads, others will follow (see the inescapable micro mini skirts of Spring/Summer 2022). So, I thought, the logical conclusion was that it would only be a matter of time before other brands began showcasing underwear as outerwear, too.
Fast forward to the Spring/Summer 2024 collections and as predicted underwear replaced pants on runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris. From Gucci's leather-look pair to Ferragamo knitted iteration and GCDS's denim undies to Stella McCartney's sparkly micro mini shorts, it seems that many designers took a 'no pants, no problem' approach to styling this season. But how wearable actually is the trend IRL? And, more importantly, who was it made for?
There's no denying that the look is incredibly divisive and people's perspectives on the trend fall on both ends of the spectrum. While some praise its Carrie Bradshaw vibes, others feel that the look is polarising and only made for one type of figure, leaving bigger bodies out of the conversation.
It is interesting to note that when shown on the runway, the 'no pants' trend was predominantly seen on thin "straight size" models (AU 4-8) and rarely styled on those who are mid-size or plus-size. (Though given that a diversity report found that "straight size" models accounted for 95.2% of looks this season, that shouldn't be too surprising.)
Of course, lingerie designers are all for the trend. Georgia Larsen, Founder of Dora Larsen tells Refinery29 Australia, "Why not! If you love your lingerie and you want to show it off, then go for it."
While Larsen didn't clarify whether she'd be wearing underwear as pants any time soon, she did admit she likes the concept of an exposed brassiere. "I like the idea of wearing a shirt with a brightly coloured bra underneath; it gives a bit of an edge and can make a look really cool. I also love pairing wired bodysuits with trousers or skirts and just throwing a cardigan or jacket on top," she explained.
Conflicted about the trend? We asked 10 women for their thoughts on the look. Keep scrolling to read their contrasting views — and see a few of the statement-making looks as they appeared on the runway.