Is Regular Brushing The Secret To Healthier Hair? An Investigation

I’m not too proud to admit that for most of my adulthood, I didn’t own a hairbrush. I was that Brooklyn twenty-something who brushed her brows, but never her hair — and for a while, it served me just fine. However, after moving to Miami from NYC — and eventually to Texas, which is now home — I quickly realised that a brush might serve me well in smoothing my perpetual halo of frizz. 

In the immediate months that followed, I noticed a reduction in tangles, which was to be expected. But as far as long-term hair (and scalp) health benefits were concerned, I was still sceptical. In a world where high-tech gadgets (take LED “helmets,” for example) are everywhere, a hairbrush seems shockingly lo-fi. As a beauty journalist, I had to learn more. 

“A good quality and well-made brush can dramatically [reduce] the amount of hair breakage,” IAT-certified trichologist Sara Hallajian tells Refinery29. “When detangling hair, especially when wet, it can become damaged more easily because the hair is weak and elastic, so the hair stretches and snaps very easily.” In other words, using the right brush — particularly on wet hair — can help minimise breakage, allowing hair to stay long and healthy. For example, a wide-tooth comb is ideal for wet hair, as it glides through easier without pulling. Aside from combs, brushes with short, spaced-out plastic bristles (like a Wet Brush or Tangle Teezer) are also ideal for post-shower detangling. 

Besides minimising breakage, Kerry E Yates, Dallas-based trichologist and founder of Colour Collective Kerry E Yates, says that regular brushing can help moisturise hair, especially dry ends. “Boar bristles are kind to the scalp and help distribute the oils from the roots down to the shaft and ends, improving condition and enhancing shine,” says Yates, who also recommends the tool for scalp massage. “With light pressure, push the brush against the head and then slowly brush down from roots to ends; repeat this process across the whole head. If you do this daily within two weeks, you will see an improvement in hair shine and condition.” 

My first foray into the wonderful world of hair brushes came in the form of Briogeo’s Vegan Boar Bristle Hair Brush, which Sephora beauty director Melinda Solares recommended to me. (It's sadly discontinued, but Dae's Vegan Detangle + Style Brush is similar, with its synthetic boar bristles.) I loved how the smooth paddle felt in my hand, and that it was an animal-friendly alternative to traditional boar bristle brushes. I fell in love with how the brush glided through my thick hair, and how it managed to smooth and soften my strands in a matter of passes. I even bought a travel version of the same brush to never be without one – me! 

“Every brush has a purpose whether it is for wet detangling, dry detangling, scalp care, or blow- drying — and for certain textures, some work better than others,” says Hallajian. “My absolute favourite is by a brand called Manta,” she adds. “It works for all hair textures, on wet or dry hair, and even for blow-dry styling. My clients always tell me how much they love this brush.”  

The Manta brush — named for the aquatic animal it resembles — skips a traditional handle in favour of a round design that fits onto your hand, similar to a scalp massager. The biggest draw, aside from the ergonomic benefits, is the flexible body construction that contours to the scalp and moves with the hair like a glove as opposed to creating tension and breakage. 

After some online research, I snapped up a Wet Brush to add to my arsenal since the idea of a softer bristle brush intrigued me. I generally don’t like to brush my hair when it’s wet since it can stretch and weaken the strand, leading to breakage, but a little gentle post-shower detangling can go a long way since my hair is so thick. Finger-combing works just fine, but I don’t see myself going back anytime soon; a brush made it easier for me to fix my part, distribute hair oil (my current go-to is Shu Uemura’s Essence Absolue), and gently brush out tangles. 

By this point, I felt like I'd cemented my relationship with hair brushes, so I decided to dip my toe into the high-end category. Mason Pearson brushes have been long heralded as the gold standard due to their impeccable craftsmanship and durable materials — one Redditor who’s had hers for over 20 years put it best: “It’s honestly going to outlast me.”) But IMO, French heritage brand Altesse is giving the brand a run for its money. I was kindly gifted a handmade Repair & Shine brush by the brand and was immediately in love. 

Not only did it arrive housed in a beautiful case, which helps prevent dust accumulating in the bristles, (though don’t forget to shampoo your brushes to keep them clean!), but the soft wood handle felt sturdy and smooth in my hand, unlike others. “Our Repair & Shine Hairbrush serves as a genuine 2-in-1 tool, designed for both scalp and hair care,” Julia Tissot-Gaillard, CEO of Altesse tells me. “It effectively massages the scalp, stimulating blood circulation to improve the supply of nutrients and oxygen to hair follicles.” Not only that, but Tissot-Galliard adds that it efficiently removes excess sebum. “This allows the scalp to ‘breathe’, promoting strong and healthy hair growth.” (While the scalp doesn't literally breathe, skin that's free from debris and product buildup is the perfect starting ground for healthy strands and a flake-free scalp.) At $260, it’s easily the fanciest brush I’ve ever owned, but it isn’t ostentatious for luxury’s sake; it genuinely made my hair feel healthier and softer without using any extra products or treatments. 

 
Another brush I’ve found to be worth every penny is Snow Fox’s Gua Sha Hair & Scalp Brush, which retails for $145. When I met with founder Phoebe Song, she  told me how each brush is handcrafted by artisans in Taiwan, and is directly inspired by centuries-old Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) practices to help with everything from alleviating tension to postpartum hair loss. (She even told me that you can use the brush as a gua sha massage tool by gliding it from the top of your scalp all the way down the nape of your neck to your shoulders to increase blood flow.) The elongated bristles (shaped as such to closely mimic acupuncture needles) are plated with 24k gold, which isn’t just to look good on your bathroom counter. In TCM practices, gold is often used to ensure that only high-quality, ‘pure’ metals come into contact with your body’s acupressure points and Qi energy. 

If you’re not looking to spend triple digits on your hairbrush — not to worry. From vegan boar bristle alternatives to hybrid brushes that use both boar bristle and nylon fibres, you’ve got options. However, there are a few things to keep in mind depending on your hair type: “The hard edges of nylon bristles can cause scalp inflammation and tear the hair,” says Yates. “If you like the idea of nylon bristles, look for bristles with a round end and be careful with how hard you brush your hair.”

It’s been almost a year since I embarked on my hair-brushing journey in earnest. And while you don’t need to spend triple-digits to get a good quality brush, keep in mind that cheap brushes may not last as long. Replacing a brush more often isn’t the most sustainable choice for the planet, or your wallet. As for my hair routine? Nothing but smooth sailing ahead.