Why Calvin Klein Is Suddenly Everywhere Again — Thanks To Love Story

It’s no secret that at their zenith, fashion designers direct the cultural compass, shaping the zeitgeist and imprinting their legacy on fashion, art, identity, and the very fabric of self-expression. In the 1990s, a time long before capsule wardrobes and the era of quiet luxury entered the fashion vernacular, American designer Calvin Klein was the undisputed arbiter of style. We're talking crisp shirting and bias-cut midi skirts, razor-sharp lapels and androgynous power suits. But in today’s lexicon, Calvin Klein is synonymous with logo-laden underwear worn by headline-makers. That could be about to change.

There was an era when Hollywood’s elite vied for the designer’s attention — and no one embodied the Klein mystique more than American sweetheart, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. You might’ve seen her name reenter the cultural conversation recently, and for good reason. FX’s latest binge-worthy series, Love Story, charts the high-profile romance and turbulent marriage of one of the 20th century’s most iconic couples, John F. Kennedy Jr and Carolyn Bessette.

Despite meeting their tragic end nearly 30 years ago, Ryan Murphy’s Love Story remains as resonant as ever among today’s younger generations. While the narrative revolves around the magnetism of their romance, the true scene-stealer is Bessette’s style, and her ability to make “throwaway-chic” not just a phrase, but an aspiration. Beyond the couple’s courtship, the series traces her climb of the ranks at Calvin Klein, from shopgirl to production director.

In the '80s and '90s, Klein’s ready-to-wear collections dominated fashion weeks and graced the covers of nearly every Vogue issue under the sun, captivating women everywhere — from Kate Moss to Gwyneth Paltrow. But as the brand’s ‘sex sells’ ethos gave way to the haunting glamour of heroin chic, a controversial look that would come to define the decade, fashion’s lens grew sharper and its shadows deeper.

For much of the series, Sarah Pidgeon, who plays Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, glides through the pristine halls of Calvin Klein’s 39th Street headquarters — a visual reminder of the brand’s heyday. The show’s prominence on screen has got us thinking: why did Calvin Klein’s once-unshakable chokehold on global style fade? And now, with pop culture’s gaze shifting back, is the brand poised for a return to the main stage of fashion?

There’s no doubting that as the millennium turned, the narrative of provocation, of women dressing to entice the male gaze, began to lose its hold. The world was changing, and perhaps, so too was the appetite for fashion’s old ways. But with the recent sartorial permanence of quiet luxury, and a new generation discovering the subtle power of minimalism, perhaps Calvin Klein is ready to reclaim its place in the ready-to-wear spotlight.

Bessette's style has been described as quiet luxury and '90s minimalism, favouring designers such as Prada, Yohji Yamamoto, Jil Sander, and, of course, Calvin Klein. '90s minimalism is defined by key pieces in your closet that can be mixed and matched, with a focus on quality garments that will last. It favours elegance over excess, rather than fast-moving trends and pieces you'll wear once and then take out of rotation. Currently, consumers are becoming more intentional about what they purchase. There's been an ever-growing movement against microtrends and fast fashion, with Gen Z favouring sustainable fashion, even if it means a higher price tag. This has created the right environment for Bessette's style and Calvin Klein to thrive.

Gen Z is also obsessed with nostalgia, including for eras they weren't around for. From the revival of vinyl to Hilary Duff's comeback, young people have told Refinery29 Australia it takes them back to a place where the world seemed safer and warmer. In a time when everything seems unstable, at least we can turn to the tried-and-true aesthetics of the '90s for some comfort. The only question is: will Calvin Klein take advantage of this moment, or will they miss the boat completely?