A Month In Los Angeles — Booked, Busy & Uncovering The Black Legacy Of L.A.

Every city has its stereotypes. I spent a good chunk of my formative years watching teen TV like The O.C. and reality shows Laguna Beach and The Hills. Those shows depict California as full of surfers, hippy yogis, blue-eyed, blonde-haired aspiring actors and white teens that could be ripped from a Ralph Lauren catalog. The Los Angeles I grew up seeing in pop culture (aside from the John Singleton ‘90s classics like Boyz n the Hood, Beverly Hills Cop III, and Poetic Justice) didn’t feel like it was for me. And when I worked retail at the So-Cal brand Hollister in my late teens, it was under investigation for discriminating against people who looked like me. Safe to say, until a decade later when I started actually going to L.A. regularly for work, I had an image of the city that wasn’t accurate (forgive my ignorance — in my defense, I’m also Canadian). For the past three years, I’ve packed up my husband, my dog, and our little life and headed west for the winter. In those years, I’ve met so many dope Black folks who were born and raised in L.A. who are now some of my best friends, discovered the history of the city that is undoubtedly Black, and found some hidden (to tourists) Black-owned gems and neighborhoods that I highly recommend. 

This year, I spent the month of March in the city covering awards season for Unbothered. In a month, I covered red carpets for the Essence Black Women in Hollywood Awards and the NAACP Image Awards, went inside the Oscars for the first time, and interviewed some incredible talent like Kingsley Ben-Adir and attended really cool events. But it was the downtime from work when I got to hang out at the beach, go hiking, explore museums and art galleries, eat incredible food, and drink great wine that made the trip so memorable. From exploring West Adams, one of the oldest and historically Black neighborhoods in Los Angeles, to staying in Hollywood for the first time and finding some great Black-owned shopping, I made it a priority not to stick to the L.A. rivers and the lakes I was used to (so to speak) like West Hollywood and Malibu and prioritize the people and places that make up Los Angeles’s deep legacy. I am being completely upfront that I am a recovering naive tourist so many of these recommendations will not come as a surprise to locals. With all that in mind, here are some highlights from a booked and busy month in L.A.

For our first few days in L.A., my husband and I, and our dog Apollo Creed (named after one of the most famous fictional Los Angeles natives) stayed at the 35-room boutique luxury hotel and private membership club, The Aster. Billed as “a playground for the curious, the connected, the creators” The Aster was a dream place to stay. Located just steps from the Hollywood Walk of Fame, it’s a dark and moody space, pulsating with creative energy and every design choice feels like it was made to inspire and spark your next big idea. We stayed in one of the pool club suites and it was expansive, luxurious and not only did we love the room that overlooked the pool (a bit too cold to swim in for March in LA but it would be the perfect summer destination), Apollo loved it too. 

The Aster’s location is fitting because its name is an homage to Hollywood (“aster” is the Latin word for “star”) and its scenic rooftop overlooks the Hollywood Hills. As one of the largest rooftop spaces in Hollywood (which also features their signature rooftop restaurant Lemon Grove where they’ve done collaborations with chef Jason Fullilove), The Aster’s 360-views of the city were a joy to experience. This summer, the Top of The Aster will also debut a slate of rooftop movie screenings, culinary collaborations, and special events. It was a little chilly (for LA! As a Canadian, I was built for this) during my stay so the rooftop screenings weren't available, but I could tell from being up there that it would make for the perfect cozy date night or fun hang out with friends — complete with a projector playing a movie and an unmatched view of the city for a real Hollywood experience.

Apollo and I spent an afternoon on the roof reading about the Black history of Hollywood and hanging out. I did a deep dive into Ralph Cooper, the co-founder of Million Dollar Productions in the 1930s, which was one of the first Black production companies in Hollywood and its star Lena Horne. Along with Horne, I refreshed my knowledge of legends like Jeni Le Gon and Dorothy Dandridge who were the first Black major studio stars for MGM, changing the face of Hollywood forever. It was really cool to learn about Black Hollywood in a space like the Aster which offers a variety of multicultural programming year-round including art showcases by Black artists, and also hosts meaningful dialogues and USC African American Cinema Society film screenings. The Aster is also located in the heart of Hollywood and a six-story mural by pop artist Tristan Eaton featuring Black Hollywood icon Sidney Poitier adorns the south-facing side of the hotel.

While I was staying at The Aster, I was also working. It’s a good thing the hotel offers a multitude of beautiful spaces for networking, and entertaining, and an exclusive Member’s Club and co-working space. On one of the mornings during my stay, I had to record a podcast previewing the Oscars and there were private phone-booth style rooms for calls that made for the perfect makeshift podcast studio. If you’re a member of The Aster, you have access to a real recording studio, more work studios and meeting rooms, a 36-seat cinema, gym, weight room, and private events. During my stay, there was even a junket taking place at the hotel for Regina King’s latest Netflix film, Shirley, about trailblazing politician Shirley Chisholm. 

The most basic, she-grew-up-in-the-suburbs thing about me is that I love malls. So when I found out that The Museum of African American Art (MAAA) is located in Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza, I couldn’t wait to check it out. But its location has a unique history. A celebration of African American culture, the museum was established in 1976, originally founded by Dr. Samella Lewis, an artist, art historian, author and educator and its first location was on Lincoln Boulevard in Santa Monica and according to their website, In 1980, the museum moved to the third floor of the historic Streamline Moderne style building at 4005 Crenshaw Boulevard, which opened as a May Company department store in 1947 and operated most recently as Macy's Baldwin Hills Store #520. The Museum of African American Art is the longest current continuous occupant of the historic building at 4005 Crenshaw Boulevard. Since Macy’s shut their stores and their original space at 4005 Crenshaw is being renovated, the museum is at their temporary location in Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza. 

When I visited the space on a sunny afternoon, I was able to take in their new exhibit Metro Art presents "HERE: Arts & Culture Along the K", which is running at the new MAAA exhibit space until May 12th. The exhibit is a multimedia showcase of the Metro Art K Line art program (most of the pieces are also displayed in the metro station). “Here honors what has been, what is present and what is possible,” the MAAA statement says. “The exhibition is a celebration of artists, cultural producers and culture bearers connected by the K Line and marks the first anniversary of Metro ‘s K Line service through the neighborhoods of Crenshaw, West Adams, Jefferson Park, Baldwin Hills, Leimert Park, Hyde Park, Inglewood, Westchester and more.” The exhibit is incredible and experiencing it in person was beautiful. The metro-commissioned artists delivered works that are love letters to their communities including stunning shots of everyday life and vivid portraits of local community members. 

After I spent time at the exhibit and had a great chat with the museum’s executive director, Keasha Dumas Heath, I perused the rest of the mall. The Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza was one of the first regional shopping centers in the United States and it’s still brimming with energy and good shopping. I stopped in a few stores before arriving at the Afro City Marketplace, a “business collective for Black designers, entrepreneurs & brands,” according to its website. It’s a colorful shop, spilling with one-of-a-kind pieces by Black-owned businesses. The store’s goal is recycling Black dollars in the community and as soon as I walked in, I knew I wanted to find a special accessory to take with me to the Oscars. 

Maybe it was the fact that I had just been reading up on Hattie McDaniel, the first Black person to win an Oscar (for Gone With The Wind), or that I had been struggling with the tone of awards season so far, but I knew I wanted to wear as many Black-owned brands as I could during the season. For The Essence Black Women In Hollywood awards, I wore a purple three-piece leather set from African Canadian brand Ofuure. And for the NAACP Image Awards, I wore a two-piece bedazzled set from Chikito, founded by Chika Okafor. For the Oscars, I accessorized a simple Black dress with an embellished clutch from Afro City Marketplace and Ofuure earrings. I also picked up a multicolored suit from another designer and basically had to drag myself away (I have a bit of a shopping problem). 

West Adams is quickly becoming my favorite neighborhood in Los Angeles. Chelsea, my dear friend and Unbothered VP, was born and raised in L.A. and her dad grew up in West Adams, one of the oldest and most historic neighborhoods in the city. She made fun of me for just now waking up to the wonder of the area that has such a rich history. The area was dubbed “West Adams Heights” in the 1920s and by the ‘30s, Sugar Hill, a district of mansions that sat atop a hill in West Adams, was the home to Black Hollywood’s elite. Movie stars including Hattie McDaniel and Louise Beavers (known for Imitation of Life, She Done Him Wrong, and Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House) used to throw celeb-packed parties in West Adams. In the ‘60s, the area was mostly destroyed (McDaniel’s house still stands) by gentrification and replaced with the Santa Monica freeway. The rest of West Adams is still thriving. Reparations Club is my favorite bookstore and I couldn’t wait to go back after going for the first time last year. Reparations Club is a Black woman-owned concept bookstore and creative space that throws amazing events throughout the year and carries the best Back authors. It’s also just a dope space where you can stock up on books and buy products like puzzles, organic honey, and cards created by Black-owned businesses. 

For restaurants in West Adams, check out Alta Adams, serving comforting food and great cocktails, and a popular spot for community events. There’s Harold & Belle’s, a delicious soul-food inspired restaurant that opened in 1969. If you want a more unique art gallery, try Band of Vices, a counterculture space founded by actor and curator Terrell Tilford in 2015. But my personal favorite spot was Adams Wine Shop, a specialty boutique featuring wine made by women and people of color from around the world. I stopped by the shop and got a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon, The Chateau Musar 2016 “Hochar” from vineyards near the village of Aana in Bekka valley, Lebanon. The shop is cozy and curated with the cutest vibe, with walls lined with wines. 

Later in my trip, I was invited to a private dinner with Disney Branded Television executive Ayo Davis at Adams Wine Shop with a few other Black media creators and editors. Before our curated dinner and wine pairings with each course, Jerry Norwood from Adams Wine Shop gave us a bit of the history of the shop and broke down how, “70% of the wines they carry are either owned and operated by a woman, or wineries that are owned and operated by a person of color, or wineries that come from wine-making regions outside of the big four: France, Italy, Spain, and Germany,” Jerry told us. The first wine on the list was a Black-woman owned South African white blend wine. He also spoke of the history of West Adams. “Before the i-10 was built, all you saw was mansions [owned by Black folks]. We gotta talk about Ethel Waters, Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington,” he said as he excitedly told us about the wine offerings for the evening. We ate, we drank, we laughed, and got to have a beautiful evening in community with other Black folks in our industry which unfortunately is rare at bougie events where the wine is flowing. But Adams Wine Shop isn’t just about the private dinners or exclusive events. Adams Wine Shop specializes in both special occasion wines, as well as delicious wines under $30 per bottle for everyday drinking. They also have a monthly wine club. 

We’ve already covered why the stereotypes about Black people and the outdoors are offensive and just plain wrong here at Unbothered but even knowing that, of course, we hike too, I hadn’t actually seen a lot of us out on the trails. But my husband, Apollo, and I usually hit up the more touristy trails like Griffith Park and Runyon Canyon. So when Chelsea invited me to do the Culver City Stairs, I figured she and I would be the only Black girls who dared to wake up early and subject ourselves to the torture of strenuous physical activity in the form of walking up a thousand (give or take) steps. Located at the Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook, the Culver City Stairs are exactly as advertised. The steep staircase takes you to an incredible view of the city, but you have to climb really high — no shortcuts — to get there. On the upside, it’s a great workout. And I have never seen so many Black and brown folks on a hiking trail at once. 

If you’re not from L.A. like me, you may know Baldwin Hills best from the since-canceled BET reality show Baldwin Hills from the late 2000s. It featured a group of affluent Black teens growing up in the upscale L.A. neighborhood. It was BET’s answer to the predominantly white MTV reality shows set in California I mentioned above. Anyway, as Chelsea and I were out of breath climbing those steps, we reminisced about the show and its cast (here’s what they are up to now in case you were wondering). On our way down from the hike (you can opt to take the road down or head back down the staircase), we ran into a Black woman by herself with a boombox blaring, hyping herself up loudly as she climbed. We cheered her on, of course. I love us. 

Against my wishes, we ended up staying in Venice for the remainder of our trip after we checked out of The Aster. Don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against Venice Beach and its beautiful surroundings, but it is FAR from so many of the events and screenings I had to attend in West Hollywood and Beverly Hills. Especially in L.A. traffic, I was spending a lot of time in Ubers (I would recommend familiarizing yourself with the new Metro offerings), but rush hour and getting across the city are my only complaints about the neighborhood. We stayed right near the beach and my husband and Apollo were running in the sand along the water every morning. 

And I was able to find some things in Venice for me, too (I don’t do the beach in under 20 degrees celsius). We were so close to Flower Boy Project that I was able to put my headphones in and take Apollo for a walk to the shop. Located in Venice, The Flower Boy Project is a physical and virtual flower shop and bodega. The co-founder is Sean Knibb, whose biggest inspiration comes from his grandmother who was a florist in Jamaica. I stopped in for some tea and looked around at the eclectic offering of floral arrangements. The shop is very cool and there’s cute apparel, jewelry, books, cards, and fragrances to buy if flowers and coffee aren’t your thing. I picked up a card deck featuring the who’s who of ‘90s hip-hop. Also in Venice is Willie Mae's, a James Beard Award winning restaurant that expanded from New Orleans to Los Angeles and is most famous for its fried chicken. However, my favorite Black-owned spot near Venice (it’s actually in Santa Monica) had to be Bludso’s BBQ which served up the best ribs and cornbread I have ever tasted — that’s high praise coming from me! 

I’ll leave you with one of my all-time favorite Black-owned spots I visited during my month in L.A. I met up with Chelsea and our friend Sandy at Joyce, a Southern brunch spot founded and operated by Prince and Athena Riley. “The name Joyce comes from my mom and my daughter’s names — and it translates to ‘joyous’, which is the feeling I want people to have when they dine with us. We want to embody family, connection and great service from our excellent team,” Prince Riley said in an interview with DTLA Guide. "With a brunch menu offered every Saturday and Sunday, guests dining at Joyce can expect to find a unique variety of options like fried chicken and waffles, shrimp and grits, and biscuits and gravy," DTLA Guide says. And the rest of the menu is just as good. To start off, we ordered refreshing cocktails, oysters and avocado toast like good millennials and enjoyed the impeccable service and intimate setting.

Joyce opened in August 2023 and it’s already one of the most popular brunch spots in the city. Chelsea was the only one of us who had been to the restaurant before and she hyped up the food but it did not disappoint. I can also attest that Prince’s goal of great service and connection really shone through. Our server was fast and friendly and the food was delicious. For the rest of our meal, we ordered the fried chicken and waffles, naturally, and soaked in the warm atmosphere and striking artwork that adorn the space. The vibes were immaculate, the drinks were strong (and good) and the food will definitely have us going back for more. Riley said it's important to collaborate with Black artists in the space and uplift other Black artists and businesses. That’s the spirit of L.A. I’ve come to know and love. The Black legacy of the city is strong and living on every day.