"KENDALL, Supermodel I will always remember the first time I met Kendall during castings for our Fall 2014 fashion show. Katie Grand invited her to come by the studio for a brief introduction before she was photographed for the model boards. At the time, I knew very little about Kendall… As history now has it, her very first fashion show was for Marc Jacobs Fall 2014. Kendall has since been a part of every show along with being featured in our Spring ’15 ad campaign (also shot by David Sims). It goes without saying that Kendall has gone on to establish an incredible career for herself and every bit of it is a testament to her hard work, passion and desire. During castings for Fall ’16, due to the enormous height of the boots we designed, we had to make certain that each girl was able to walk (and walk safely). Kendall slid those boots on and walked around the studio as if she was in a pair of running shoes: statuesque, confident and just as enthusiastic and excited to be doing the show as if it was her first one. For me, it is the ability of a model to effortlessly transform into a look and character that makes her so appealing and inspiring. Photographed by David Sims for our Fall ’16 ad as a Goth Goddess is the sweet, kind and ultimate professional, Kendall Jenner." -@themarcjacobs • Photographed by David Sims Styled by @kegrand Casting by @bitton Hair by @guidopalau Makeup by @diane.kendal Nails by @jinsoonchoi Set design by @stefanbeckman #MJFW16
As he always does when debuting his campaign posse each season, Jacobs revealed the image on Instagram, accompanied by an extensive caption explaining his relationship with Jenner and rationale for the her inclusion. In Jenner's case, the duo first crossed paths during a casting for Jacobs' fall '14 show, introduced by Jacobs' go-to stylist, Love editor Katie Grand.
But it was Jenner's graceful gait in some teetering footwear (which she wears in the ad) that really impressed the designer. "During castings for fall ’16, due to the enormous height of the boots we designed, we had to make certain that each girl was able to walk (and walk safely)," Jacobs writes on Instagram. "Kendall slid those boots on and walked around the studio as if she was in a pair of running shoes: statuesque, confident, and just as enthusiastic and excited to be doing the show as if it was her first one."
Jacobs also has some flattering words for the model beyond her strutting abilities."It goes without saying that Kendall has gone on to establish an incredible career for herself and every bit of it is a testament to her hard work, passion, and desire," Jacobs writes. Stay tuned for any further additions to the campaign.
Update, June 20, 2016: Marc Jacobs has released a few more images from his fall ’16 ads, which are being rolled out incrementally via Instagram (par for the course for the designer’s last few campaigns). Six new images were released over the weekend, including Marilyn Manson, Cara Delevingne, and Courtney Love. As always, Jacobs shares each campaign image with a lengthy caption detailing his connection to the person and the significance of casting her or him in the ads. Last week’s unveiled ads feature Missy Elliott, Sissy Spacek, John Tuite, and Carlos Santolalla, as well as a model group shot.
"MANSON, Brains and Beauty Ironically, I met Marilyn Manson on Halloween in Los Angeles shortly after the release of his album, Antichrist Superstar in 1996. It was after meeting him that I started listening to his music- in large part because I was intrigued by his persona and curious about his perverse and incredible intellect. The Beautiful People and its accompanying music video with all its gorgeous grotesqueries is what sweet dreams are NOT made of… The incredibly powerful and frenetic pace of the video with the attenuated and elongated Manson pulled, disfigured and contorted by means of surgical devices, dental apparatuses and other contraptions is absolutely nightmare inducing and an outrageously captivating attraction of repulsion. For our Fall 2011 fashion show, there was no better song to send the girls marching down our boudoir comme insane-asylum runway than, The Beautiful People. It was the perfectly twisted companion for that collection which played at a volume that nearly shook the walls down. In direct contrast to the outward hideous beauty of Manson’s stage persona is his instinctive, inherent intelligence and understanding of what matters. These days more so than ever I am reminded of Manson’s interview in the documentary film, Bowling for Columbine and his response to a question asking what he would say to the kids and Columbine community in the wake of the tragedy that took place in 1999. His response was, “I wouldn’t say a single word to them. I would listen to what they have to say, and that’s what no one did.” Sometimes knowing when to listen is more important than being heard, and in one sentence Manson left a stronger impression on me than his music ever had previously." -@themarcjacobs • Photographed by David Sims Styled by @kegrand Casting by @bitton Hair by @guidopalau Makeup by @diane.kendal Nails by @jinsoonchoi Set design by @stefanbeckman #MJFW16
Jacobs decided to cast Delevingne for reasons eclipsing her looks (which are basically unrecognizable in this campaign image): “Every once in a blue moon, I am fortunate enough to meet a model with a personality so huge it almost overshadows even the strongest of looks — the most dramatic fashion,” the designer writes on Instagram.
"CARA, Womanchild Every once in a blue moon I am fortunate enough to meet a model with a personality so huge it almost overshadows even the strongest of looks– the most dramatic fashion. When I met Cara through Katie Grand a few years ago, she was the girl in the animal onesie with boundless energy, great humor and in perpetual motion. Watching Cara’s growth and evolution into a dynamic, outspoken, independent woman is a true joy, just as she is herself. Her generosity and care in wanting to get a job done right (even if it means missing a flight!) is a testament to her professionalism and true character. Photographed sitting still and just as full of life as always, the unstoppable Cara Delevingne by David Sims for our Fall ’16 ad campaign." -@themarcjacobs • Photographed by David Sims Styled by @kegrand Casting by @bitton Hair by @guidopalau Makeup by @diane.kendal Nails by @jinsoonchoi Set design by @stefanbeckman #MJFW16
Love and Jacobs met in 1994, and the designer was “quite taken by her deep, thorough knowledge of and voracious appetite for fashion and music,” he writes of the “Goddess of Grunge.” It’s not all sentimental, though — Jacobs also praises the “movie star glamour of the powerfully aloof and infinitely present” current-day Love.
"COURTNEY, R(evolution) With my abundance of respect for Courtney Love’s musical contributions to grunge/rock culture and her status as this sort of, Grunge Goddess, it was her mesmerizing and extraordinarily moving portrayal of Althea in the film, The People vs Larry Flynt that simultaneously broke my heart and won my love. While I hadn’t yet met Courtney during my time as Creative Director at Perry Ellis, it was her then style that had a great influence on that now infamous “grunge collection” show in 1992. Courtney and I (and a then 2 or 3 year old Frances Bean) first met at dinner with Anna Sui in 1994 at Bar Six in NYC. I remember being quite taken by her deep, thorough knowledge of and voracious appetite for fashion and music. There has always been a genuine allure about Courtney that I continue to admire. The way she’d scream her lyrics from that gash of a red mouth to the hard rocking, wailing sounds of Hole. She was then and remains now, for me, the ultimate divine mess in a dress. Gone but no where near forgotten is the girl-woman Goddess of Grunge in her too small tattered dresses, the little girl barrette in her messy, scattered hair and beaten up brocade 1960’s evening shoes. It’s a long distance from the now iconic kinder-whore Courtney photographed by Juergen Teller for I-D magazine in 1994 to the movie star glamour of the powerfully aloof and infinitely present Courtney, photographed here by David Sims for our Fall ’16 campaign." -@themarcjacobs • Photographed by David Sims Styled by @kegrand Casting by @bitton Hair by @guidopalau Makeup by @diane.kendal Nails by @jinsoonchoi Set design by @stefanbeckman #MJFW16
Other imagery released over the weekend includes performance artist Kembra Pfahler and St. Vincent, a.k.a. Annie Clark — the latter of whom Jacobs wanted to feature in a campaign for a while, per his Instagram post. There’s also a shot of a trio of models donning black and wearing sunglasses, which Jacobs explains was inspired by ‘80s girl groups and the 1984 hit “I Wear My Sunglasses at Night” in his Instagram caption (which also includes a brief history lesson on the significance of wearing black from the 15th century through present day).
"ANNIE, Other The idea to ask musician Annie Clark (more commonly known by her stage name, St. Vincent) to be a part of our ad campaign had been discussed long before the Fall 2016 season began. It was Katie Grand who originally brought Annie to my attention and suggested we consider extending an invitation to join this campaign. I was really taken by comments Annie made in an interview with Rolling Stone Magazine where she described queerness as a transcendence of sexuality and as a “banner” for being “other.” It was thoughtful, relevant and poignant. There’s a certain maturity that’s inherent in Annie that transcends her age and while her music is a direct reflection of her intellectual curiosities and musical prowess, it was when I had the privilege of meeting Annie in person that I experienced her magnetism. She operates with such genuine grace, poise and sincerity. I am in complete awe of the beauty of this photograph by David Sims for our Fall 2016 ad campaign. It so perfectly captures the inherent contemplativeness of Annie, her humility and mystery." -@themarcjacobs • Photographed by David Sims Styled by @kegrand Casting by @bitton Hair by @guidopalau Makeup by @diane.kendal Nails by @jinsoonchoi Set design by @stefanbeckman #MJFW16
As for Manson’s casting, Jacobs writes that the two met in 1996 and he used Manson’s song, “The Beautiful People,” as the soundtrack to his fall ’11 show. This isn’t Manson’s first time in a high-end campaign — he was featured in Hedi Slimane-era Saint Laurent ads circa 2013. He’s also quietly been cropping up in the fashion orbit in the last few months, whether in the flesh (i.e. attending a Stella McCartney show) or printed on T-shirts (worn by the likes of Justin Bieber and Kendall Jenner). It’s a pretty heady dose of ’90s nostalgia, thanks to Manson, Love, and Elliott all appearing in the ads.
There are likely a couple more names still to come in the fall ’16 imagery, so stay tuned.
This story was originally published on June 15, 2016.
"In a continuing series of portraits for our Fall 2016 ad campaign, the individuals in these photographs represent a collective embodiment of love, honesty, integrity, courage, strength, curiosity and inspiration," Jacobs wrote on Instagram yesterday. "Together, as one story, this collection is a reminder to question and challenge normal and to continue exploring and pushing boundaries."
As for Missy's campaign cameo (she dons feathers and one of those puffy black Canada Goose jackets from the designer's fall '16 show in the shot) Jacobs wrote that "it was a dream of mine to work with her," and that he's been a fan for nearly two decades. "Missy’s music has kept me and my design team happily energized through countless weekdays, weeknights and weekends during those long hours of sketching, fitting, styling and doing looks...I am in continued awe of Missy’s ability to push the boundaries of the style of music both to the eye and to the ear," Jacobs wrote.
Jacobs' reasons for casting Sissy Spacek date back even further, all the way back to when the designer was 13 years old and saw Carrie for the very first time, as he details in the Insta reveal of the campaign shot. Other campaign images released thus far include artist Genesis Breyer P-Orridge and a gaggle of models.
And while Elliott and Spacek are the biggest, most attention-grabbing names in the ads (that we know of yet, at least), perhaps the most poignant casting is former couple John Tuite and Carlos Santolalla. Known collectively as "Jarlos," they gained attention in 2015 or being the "first gay couple" to sign with a modeling agency; Jacobs shares the full backstory of why he cast the ex-couple (wearing the designer's women's pieces) on Instagram. Santolalla told Dazed yesterday why the ad symbolizes LGBT defiance and is especially powerful in light of the horrific shooting in Orlando, FL.