The Best Under-The-Radar FW Shows, According To US

Over the past week, we R29 editors have kept our schedule jam-packed. And, honestly, when it comes to Fashion Week, we like it that way. This is a special time of the year for us to see some of our favorite indie collections up close and scope out what new names could be the next big ticket. So, with all of our ears to the ground, we then huddled back together to share our favorite Fashion Week shows and presentations that, next to the likes of Marc Jacobs or Alexander Wang, may have flown a bit under the radar.
Don't get us wrong: None of these designers are small potatoes. Some are making their first or second appearance at NYFW, some have revived their lines and are better than ever, and some just simply held smaller presentations — nope, no strobe lights or theatrical sets here. Ahead, these are the 10 emerging-designer Fashion Week shows that really knocked our socks off.
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Photo: Courtesy of Adam Lippes.
"I'm not a huge lover of ultra ladylike dressing, but Adam Lippes' brand of modern femininity offers a whole new spin on grown-up girl power. Having relaunched his namesake line back in February, this latest collection is further proof of this guy's knack for glamorous volume matched with cool sportswear references — it's sophistication that's never precious. I can honestly say I would wear every piece in this collection. I mean, that leopard coat is what dreams are made of."

— Christene Barberich, editor-in-chief
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Photo: Courtesy of Adam Lippes.
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Photo: Courtesy of Adam Lippes.
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Photo: Courtesy of William Okpo.
"Lizzy and Darlene Okpo have the most amazing personal style on their own. And, while they've been running their line for quite some time, this collection really placed them on the map. Not only was the presentation so much fun to be at, the graphic designs really stood out as one of the coolest collections of the week."
— Piera Gelardi, executive creative director
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Photo: Courtesy of William Okpo.
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Photo: Courtesy of William Okpo.
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Photo: Courtesy of Delpozo.
"Spanish label Delpozo showed in New York for its second time and managed to totally bowl me over. In fairy-tale silhouettes, imaginative design details, and ethereal, light-as-air construction, its fantasticality really made an impact in a season full of practicality."
— Connie Wang, senior global editor
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Photo: Courtesy of Delpozo.
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Photo: Courtesy of Delpozo.
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Photo: Courtesy of Maki Oh.
"Nigerian designer Maki Oh presented in NYC for the first time this season, and, though I've been familiar with her work from her past two deliveries, it's clear from the strength of this collection (and its reception) that she's a new power player in a niche market. Her clothes are daring without being too out-there and thoughtful without being overworked. The fringe dresses, dyed skirts, and playful tops are not trend based, but rather forward thinking. They toy with female conventions and the interplay between eastern and western cultures, but you don't need to know the backstory to covet their aesthetic. Plus, Maki Oh herself is totally lovely, too."
— Annie Georgia Greenberg, NY editor
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Photo: Courtesy of Maki Oh.
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Photo: Courtesy of Maki Oh.
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Photographed by Gunnar Larson.
"Last year, Ostwald Helgason made sad crocodiles, and I was absolutely tickled. This year, however, the brand officially came into its own with quirky-cute (but not in any sort of twee manner) pleats and bright, incredible hues. The duo shows a preternatural ability to mix and match colors, and every piece of the collection looked vividly different — but it could all be worn together. The offering was something typical of a much more seasoned brand. Can't wait to get my hands on all of it. ALL of it."
— Leila Brillson, senior news editor
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Photographed by Gunnar Larson.
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Photographed by Gunnar Larson.
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Photo: Courtesy of ADEAM.
"I first fell in love with ADEAM when I saw the designer's New York debut for fall '13. Simple, well-thought-out cuts, rich colors, and just the right amount of unique patterns worked in are what I've come to love from ADEAM and this season is no different. Spring '13 is both forward thinking and classic (those shorts!), and I'm definitely feeling this young designer's take on tie-dye. There's no question that I could live in this collection — and this collection alone come spring '13."
— Willow Lindley, assistant fashion editor
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Photo: Courtesy of ADEAM.
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Photo: Courtesy of ADEAM.
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"Making her NYFW debut, I have a feeling we'll be seeing LOTS more of Rosie Assoulin from here on out. And the spring '13 collection totally blew me away. The collection was feminine (which I love) yet far from cutesy (which I do not), mixing perfect tailoring with to-die-for draping. Plus, the candy-colored accessories were the quirky cherry on top."
— Gina Marinelli, assistant editor
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Photo: Courtesy of Joie.
"Between the demented clown-cum-Nurse Ratcheds at Thom Browne and the leopard-print, urban-inspired explosion at Rodarte, there was no shortage of boundary-pushing kook at New York Fashion Week (who says all the good stuff happens in London?). Still, when we walked into the Joie presentation at the airy, white-walled Center 548, we breathed an instinctual sigh of relief. No pulsing-beat soundtrack, no flashbulb-popping pit of photographers, no flash-in-the-pan trends. Just simple, clean, eminently wearable clothes that call to mind a 'Birkin-does-Ibiza' kind of boheme.

White, spaghetti-strap crop tops with flowing white lacework skirts. A perfectly cut, high-waisted jean with a white silk blouse and a straw boater. Cropped leather baby bell-bottoms, with a loose tunic and barely there sandals. These effortlessly cool clothes cut through all the Fashion Week hype — and I can actually see myself wearing them (let's just say I may already have those high-waisted jeans on pre-order). If you've ever admired that maddeningly chic French vibe, Joie is the brand to put on your radar."
— Leeann Duggan, staff writer
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Photo: Courtesy of Joie.
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Photo: Courtesy of Joie.
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Photo: Courtesy of Osklen.
"I'm not over the monochrome thing yet. I might never be. But Osklen played with shapes and textures in such a subtle, modern, electrifying way this season that I'm ready to officially ditch patterns and prints in favor of these sheer solids. Even though most of the looks are simple splashes of one single hue, I was never bored."
— Lexi Nisita, news editor
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Photo: Courtesy of Osklen.
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Photo: Courtesy of Osklen.
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Photo: Courtesy of Sally LaPointe.
"Inspired by the decay of deli flowers, LaPointe's spring '14 collection elevated her macabre aesthetic to a level of refined pastel beauty. Plastic coated textiles and tightly wrapped silhouettes blossomed into a timely decline that endures in its ephemeralness."
— Hayden Manders, editorial assistant
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Photo: Courtesy of Sally LaPointe.
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Photo: Courtesy of Sally LaPointe.
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