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25-year-old designer Shayne Oliver's menswear label Hood By Air wields high-design and street-cool in a way that doesn't intimidate, and his latest Spring 2014 collection of zippered tops, unstructured shirts, and mudflap shorts are done in a way that doesn't feel gimmicky. The collection
treaded stomped into the theatrical world at times, with tubular jumpsuits and coats influenced by Chinese paratrooper uniforms, but the designer never strayed from his overarching theme of strength.
For menswear, Hood By Air is anything but masculine. With that said, the clothes aren't feminine, either; the exist to challenge our perceptions of gendered design. Oliver sent both men and women down the runway with football-inspired beauty, but his element of toughness didn't come from the makeup or aggressive model walks. It came through his androgynous approach to sportswear, a largely male-inspired field of fashion that — until Hood By Air — was a literal boys club. But, from the collared shirts to the graphic, flowing sweatsuits, this latest collection is for the person daring to push the boundaries. It's not a question of whether those looking to rock the looks are man enough, per se, it's whether or not they are tough enough to own them.