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Gentle and feminine were the watchwords for Derek Lam's spring '13 beauty look. Tom Pecheux, Estée Lauder's creative makeup director, created a watery, delicate look that was ladylike and elegant, the perfect contrast to Lam's bold, structured clothes. “It is very feminine, very elegant and very discreet. Glistening aqua shades, see-through subtle color, and shimmer that reveal little by little. Derek is not a show off. If you take time to discover his clothes close up, you are wowed,” said Pecheux,
Pecheux was aiming for an almost 3-D effect on the eyes, which he created by blending green and silver cream eyeshadows, both new for the brand next spring, with a dab of Re-Nutriv Intensive Lifting Eye Creme to create transparency and a satiny finish. "I wanted it to look like a lake early in the morning, at sunrise," he said, so on top of the shimmery aqua lid, he applied some pink blush on top and a dab of coppery burgundy cream shadow beneath the eye to invoke the look of the sun reflecting off the water. The shape of the shadow was kept soft and blended to fade, and no liner or mascara was used.
On the lips, Pecheux dabbed on a champagne cream shadow (apparently his new go-to product) to "kill the natural lip color" of the models and create a uniform hue. He completed the face by applying a soft, subtle blush very low on the cheek, almost like a contour, in keeping with the flowing, aquatic theme.
Working with Estée Lauder's new Pure Colour Nail Lacquer, Jin Soon Choi created rosy beige nails with a hint of shimmer using So Vain, a hue that will launch next spring. And finally, Orlando Pita, who was there with Beauty.com, Phyto, and T3, went for a totally modern and sleek look, parting models' hair to the side and keeping an extremely straight, sleek texture.
Photographed by Gunnar Larson