3 Tricky Makeup Moves To Master

You love the look of a perfectly glammed-up face, but to achieve it, you're thinking you'd probably have to call in a small army. Allow us to dispel this myth with the help of Carley Martin, one of the makeup experts at Artists by Timothy Priano, and our beautiful muse Sarah Ward from Factor Women. We'll show you how to tackle some of the trickiest tasks in the business. If contouring your face results in scary spots and Rorschach-test blotches, applying lip-stain leads to popsicle-mouth, and false-eyelash applications equal a trip to the emergency room, you seriously need to keep reading. Ms. Martin breaks it all down for you, and even recommends the right products for your next adventure in makeup. One good read and you'll be ready to dive into some new skills, face first.
Photos by Stephanie Bassos.
Contouring & Highlighting
"Using shadows and light are a great way to give shape and dimension to your face. It can either enhance or 'correct' your features."
Step One: "First, start with your normal foundation and follow with concealer under your eyes and over any redness or blemishes. It's ideal to have a totally neutral, blank canvas. For the contour, use either a matte bronzer or a neutral (aka, not reddish or warm-brown) medium to dark shadow that's darker than your skin tone. Start with only a little because it's easier to build than subtract."
Step Two: "To give cheekbones depth, make a fish-face by sucking in your cheeks and puckering up. Using swirling circular motions, blend the powder from your hairline down to underneath the apples of your cheeks. Then blend around the outer-edge of your forehead near your hairline, then again underneath your chin, ultimately creating the shape of the number three on each side of your face. You can also use a little powder to define the sides of your nose."
Step Three: "Next, we want to highlight. Lighter skin tones look best with cream or pink tones and darker skin tones should use a more golden shade. Apply using a small brush just to the tops of the cheekbones. Finish the look by drawing a thin line down the bridge of your nose and right in the center of the Cupid's bow of your upper lip. If you like color on your cheeks, dust a punch of color on the apples."
Carley recommends Makeup Forever's Complexion Sculpting Kit, $68, available at Media Makeup Store.
Applying False Eyelashes
"It's so easy, and takes just a few minutes once you practice. Everyone is doing it...not just celebs!"
Step One: "Start by curling your eyelashes gently, but not too much as that will prevent you from accessing the base of your lash."
Step Two: "Apply your desired eyeshadow, eyeliner, and two coats of mascara ensuring you coat every lash from the inner- and outer-corners."
Step Three: "Once dry, apply a thin layer of eyelash glue to the underside of the strip of lashes and let dry for 30 seconds so that it becomes tacky. Hold a mirror in your lap and look down to find the exact placement to apply the lashes. Carefully lay the lashes down at the base of your natural lashes; you may use your fingers or tweezers to do so."
Step Four: "To really press lashes in and ensure they are secured, take an angled eyeliner brush with a little black waterproof gel eyeliner and press into lashes. This also helps to conceal any glue that may be present, and eliminate any fleshy tones at the base of the lash-line."
Step Five: "To remove, gently rub an oil-based eye-makeup remover over your lashes, and off they come."
Carley recommends Ardell Fashion Lashes, $3.49, available at Drugstore.com, and Waterproof Aqua Gel Liner by Sonia Roselli, $22, available at Sonia Roselli.
"Lip-stains are a great way to wear sheer or bold color that stays on all day, even through cocktails, eating, kissing, et cetera."
Step One: "To avoid scaly skin, exfoliate your lips using a grainy lip scrub or brush lightly with a clean toothbrush. Remove all product and allow to dry."
Step Two: "Use a concealer around your lips, then apply the stain to the edge of your natural lips like a lipliner. Use short strokes for more accuracy."
Step Three: "Fill in the remainder of your lips and allow to dry. Apply a second coat and once that is dry, feel free to finish with a gloss or lipstick. Even if it fades, your lips will still be stained!"
Carley recommends Pomegranate Crush lip & cheek stain by Stila, $24, available at Stila, and NARS lip gloss in Moon Fleet, $24, available at NARS.

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