Please upgrade your browser for the best Refinery29 experience. Read more.

Saved! Access Favorites in your account profile. Removed from my favorites

Dior Shows Its First Collection Without Raf Simons Since 2012

comments
Photo: Getty.
On Monday afternoon came one of the most eagerly anticipated events of the luxury fashion calendar: the Dior spring 2016 couture show in Paris. For its first womenswear offering since creative director Raf Simons' surprise departure in October, the brand turned to its in-house designers Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier to continue its legacy of offbeat femininity.

With years of high-end fashion credentials under their belts — Ruffieux joined Dior in 2008 during John Galliano's tenure and became head designer in 2012 when Simons took over; Meier was head-hunted by the company after a five-year stint at Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs, followed by time at Balenciaga with Nicolas Ghesquière — and a lack of urgency for the house to appoint someone new at the helm, the pair crafted a collection that meshed signature Dior with Simons' vision of modernity.

Surrounded by a dazzling mirrored decor in Musée Rodin, models (including Binx Walton, Lineisy Montero, and Molly Bair) took the runway, reflected from every angle. Proving that no bold-faced personality tied to a label is necessary for its success, Ruffieux and Meier presented a selection of understated-but-beautiful bare-shouldered silhouettes, lacy pieces, nipped-in waists with exquisite tailoring, and the most intricate diamanté embellishments and Lily of the Valley prints. Present, too, was the inventive layering Simons made popular: a red off-the-shoulder three-quarter-sleeved tee on top of a shimmery black bustier-style piece; a super-thin knit paired with an unconventional menswear-inspired vest; a netted minidress with an oversized white blazer. Though the usual gowns were missing from the finale, the simple-but-sweet cocktail dresses made up for it.
Photo: Getty.
The front row was filled with familiarity: Olivia Palermo, Anna Dello Russo, and Carine Roitfeld sat by, anticipating what the new Dior (or rather, the Dior of-the-moment) has to prove. It's yet to be revealed whether the future collections will also be designed by this (undoubtedly capable) in-house team, or if a new creative director will be announced imminently — whatever the outcome, it seems like the house (and its legacy) will be just fine.
SHARE
TWEET
EMAIL