Over the past eight years, Japanese designer Masayuki Marukawa has carefully imbued his line, m/m (pronounced 'milli') with a playful, but intellectual aesthetic. With his intense attention to detail, and moody draped looks, the proportions and lines of his collection are clearly influenced by Marukawa's sixteen years at Yohji Yamamoto. But it's not all severity and dour attitudes for Marukawa. There's a bit of the flirty tom boy in the mix too. For this F/W season, Marukawa juxtaposes androgynous looks and fits against bright floral accordion skirts, and delicate slip dresses. Sure m/m is a graceful and mature collection—but that doesn't mean its dark reds and blacks come without a wink and a smile.
The Masayuki Marukawa collection is available at Legacy New York, 109 Thompson St, 212-966-4827; www.