A Classic Recipe Gets A Much-Needed Update

beetPhoto: James Ransom/Courtesy of Food52.
If you grew up in the 1970s, you were lucky if you managed to avoid the scourge of ambrosia made with marshmallows, canned mandarin oranges, shredded coconut, and sometimes Cool Whip. Even my mother, who was an early proponent of seasonal and local cooking, had a weakness for it. Likewise, if you grew up eating ambrosia, you can't help but feel a fondness for its weirdness. And, that’s because even in bad ambrosia is an excellent flavor combination: bright fruit and coconut.
Ambrosia was ripe for a refresh. I started with pineapple — bright like mandarin oranges, yet not canned — and roasted beets (do roast them, which brings out their sweetness), and mixed the two with grated ginger, raw sugar, and shredded coconut. (You can use unsweetened flaked coconut, but I prefer the sweetened, soft shredded kind for this recipe.) Usually, you mix together all the ingredients at once, and then let it macerate for a few hours. In this newfangled version, I let just the fruit and coconut macerate.
In place of the marshmallows, which can stay in the '70s, I made a whipped sour cream topping that gets spooned on top of the salad and sits aloft like a cloud. As you eat the gently spiced fruit salad, you mix in the cream, lightening it, softening the edges, and bringing ambrosia a whole lot closer to the 21st century.
Pineapple Beet Ambrosia
Serves 4
3 cups cubed (1/2-inch) pineapple
1 cup cubed (1/2-inch) roasted beets
1 cup sweetened shredded coconut
1 tsp grated ginger
2 tbsp raw sugar
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup sour cream
Pinch cayenne
1. In a large bowl, mix together the pineapple, beets, coconut, ginger, and 1 tbsp sugar. Chill for 1 to 4 hours.
2. In a small bowl, whip the cream and remaining sugar to soft peaks. Fold in the sour cream.
3. Season the pineapple mixture to taste with a few small pinches cayenne, and then spoon the mixture into a bowl. Serve the fruit salad, topped with a generous helping of whipped cream, to be mixed in as it's being eaten.

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