It's easy to look like you're trying too hard when going for the "tomboy" look. With requisite tweed pants and suspenders, collections inspired by menswear can evince more "costume party" rather than butch chic. However, it takes a special sort of designer to draw inspiration from men and spin it into a collection that makes the fairer sex look like goddesses — and Joseph Altuzarra seems to understand that alchemy. For his spring '14 show, Altuzarra played with typically masculine archetypes like cowboys, sailors, rabbis, and Wall Street wheelers and dealers, represented in the form of fringed jackets, nylon anoraks, Jewish taillits, and Banker's blue silk shirts (with contrast collars, of course). However, nothing felt like girls playing dress up in their father's clothes — make no mistake, these clothes are made for us. Perfectly flattering a woman's shape, versatile in its office-to-bar appropriateness (those skirt ties help keep the slits PC for HR), and devastatingly sexy, this is definitely a collection of separates made for women who want a little extra spice in their day-to-day.
The collection was also made to move. Altuzarra has always loved a good fringe, whether with velvet trim in spring '13 or yarn pom-poms in fall '12. This year, variations of fringe wove through the collection, tying together the different tropes in spite of its untethered-ness — flowing ties on pinstriped silk skirts, leather fringe, and loose odds and ends from a variety of undone gowns. And with news that Altazurra has sold a minority stake of the brand to holding company Kering (which includes Stella McCartney, Gucci, and Alexander McQueen on its roster), there's a big reason to dance. Mazel, pardners!