Photo: Courtesy Quentin Bacon.
When the Mile End Delicatessen opened in Brooklyn in 2010, it was immediately overwhelmed by people hungry for its Montreal-style, smoked-meat sandwiches. In addition to that, owners Noah and Rae Bernamoff continue to offer other Jewish comfort foods they knew growing up in Montreal's vigorous Jewish community. If you happen to be in New York on November 26, you can stop by its Noho location for a Hanukkah meal that includes red-wine-braised brisket, sunchoke kugel, and these awesome jelly doughnuts.Jelly Doughnuts
Recipe courtesy of
The Mile End Cookbook
by Noah and Rae Bernamoff
Jelly- and custard-filled doughnuts, called sufgoniyot
in Hebrew, are a big deal around Hanukkah in Israel. The ones we make are dainty little beauties filled with our house-made Concord-grape jelly.
For the doughnuts:
4 tablespoons instant yeast
1 cup lukewarm water
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
5 cups all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt
Make the doughnuts:
Add the first 6 doughnut ingredients to a large bowl and stir to combine.
Add the flour and salt, and stir (or mix with your hands) until the dough comes together (it will still be wet and sticky).
On a well-floured surface, knead and shape the dough into a thick disk; transfer it to a bowl that's greased with oil or cooking spray, and let it rest in a warm, draft-free area for 1 hour.
On a well-floured surface, flatten the dough and roll it out into a 1/4-inch-thick disk. Use a 2-inch round cookie cutter to cut out as many circles of dough as you can. Transfer the circles to a 10-by-15-inch baking sheet that's lined with parchment paper and greased with oil. Collect the dough trimmings and form them into another ball; roll it into another 1/4-inch-thick disk, cut out more doughnuts, and transfer them to the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Let the dough circles rest in a warm, draft-free area for a half-hour. Then heat about 1 inch of oil in a high-sided skillet over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking (365 to 375°F).
Working in batches, fry the doughnuts until they're golden brown on one side; then flip them and finish frying, about 3 minutes total. Transfer the doughnuts to a paper towel to drain.
Fill and finish:
Transfer some of the Concord-grape jelly to a pastry bag or to a zip-top bag with a small hole cut from one corner. When the doughnuts have cooled completely, use a small knife to gently burrow from the side of the doughnut to the center. Insert the tip of the bag into the opening and pipe in as much filling as possible. Repeat with the remaining doughnuts and filling. Dust the doughnuts generously with powdered sugar, and sprinkle each with a small pinch of coarse salt.
Tip: Instead of using a thermometer to measure the oil temperature, you can test it by throwing in a cube of dry, old bread. When it fries to golden brown in about a minute, the oil is the right temperature.Mile End Sandwich Shop, 53 Bond Street (at Bowery); NYC, 212-529-2990
Mile End Delicatessen, 97A Hoyt Street (at Atlantic Avenue); Brooklyn, 718-852-7510.