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Tasting Table is a website and newsletter for culinary enthusiasts. The editors eat high and low to bring you the discerning dining advice, recipes you can trust and news you can use from the world of food and drink. They're an opinionated gang of always-curious, anchovy-loving, order-one-of-everything-for-the-table epicurean obsessives. Pull up a seat.
Moments before the evening rush at Navy, handsome, serious-looking men at the bar swirl their glasses of red wine, seriously. A woman reads a book (a real book!) as the last of the evening light filters through a patchwork of Japanese indigos. In a corner of this tiny dining room, someone is opening oysters. Camille Becerra is a stylist as well as a cook. She's created a beautiful world on Sullivan Street where the trout en croûte ($34) wears a jacket of puff pastry with its collar popped (and needs only a pale green pool of lemony sorrel sauce to accessorize).