This Dish Is The Crown Jewel Of Seafood

Moments before the evening rush at Navy, handsome, serious-looking men at the bar swirl their glasses of red wine, seriously. A woman reads a book (a real book!) as the last of the evening light filters through a patchwork of Japanese indigos. In a corner of this tiny dining room, someone is opening oysters. Camille Becerra is a stylist as well as a cook. She's created a beautiful world on Sullivan Street where the trout en croûte ($34) wears a jacket of puff pastry with its collar popped (and needs only a pale green pool of lemony sorrel sauce to accessorize).