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• April 18, 2006
• Shopping Roundup

Girl Scout

By Meredith Fisher

Few denim brands have been as influential in pioneering the return of the skinny jean as Earnest Sewn. But, when you've prompted nearly every woman in America to forsake her bootlegs, what do you do for an encore? Give her something to go with it.

Following the successful launch of the men's Earnest Cut & Sew collection, the indie denim label's first women's line will debut at their Washington Street concept store in July. "I wanted the women's collection to mimic the Earnest Sewn philosophy and aesthetic," says designer and president Scott Morrison. "That meant using the highest quality fabrics and the most intensive sewing applications." The result, unveiled this summer, is a range of essential, effortless knits, dresses, and skirts. A pair of dark-washed Hefners is the perfect partner for the heather Harper henley or the chalk-striped Wolfe blazer. As Morrison points out, "Earnest Sewn jeans are a wardrobe staple for our customer, and everything is designed specifically to work back to denim."

I wanted the women's collection to mimic the Earnest Sewn philosophy and aesthetic.

The Victorian-inspired line for Fall '06 also reflects the women's designer Brett Lally's penchant for tailoring traditions of the late 1700s (a preference evident in her own personal line Borne). Starting with classically masculine concepts like the henley and the bomber jacket, she introduced feminine details both with fabric (fine-gauge cashmere and lace) and cut (cropped and shaped-to-fit). "The Earnest Sewn lifestyle is one of exquisite leisure," says Brett. "So we took elements of Americana outdoor-wear and added a city sensibility." Lengths and layers also played a prominent role in creating a line that is simultaneously modern and traditional. The wool Maltese trench fits perfectly over just about any bottom, from a mini to trousers, while the Didion plaid bomber pairs well with a tailored denim pencil skirt (note: both designs are named for Lally's favorite female writers).

For Morrison, the country sophisticate is all part of his plan. "We wanted to establish ourselves in the market first with denim, and then introduce clothing as a separate collection that works back to the overall brand aesthetic." Mission accomplished.

Earnest Sewn, 821 Washington Street, (212) 242-3414; www.earnestsewn.com.

Because a favorite pair of drainpipes just isn't enough, indie denim label Earnest Cut & Sew debuts a refined collection of women's must-haves—read: dreamy trench, perfect slim skirt—and more.