Hedi Slimane has always nursed a fascination with bad-girl archetypes. But, whereas past seasons have found him decade-skipping between '60s girl gangs, '70s disco divas, and '80s New Wavers, this time around, Slimane's landed squarely on sartorial inspiration, circa 1966 (give or take). And, it's a focus that made this one of his best collections for Saint Laurent yet.
Slimane's cadre of fringe-blinking, sloe-eyed models marched down the runway in Twiggy-approved miniskirts; dolly-bird dresses; and teddy-girl-style, tie-necked blouses that would have made Yves himself proud. Glittery go-go boots, low-heeled Mary Janes, capes, and sequin shift dresses completed the Youthquake vibe. But, as always, Slimane's clothes were not museum pieces. Modern elements like teddy-bear-fur skirts and coats, trim leather jackets, and tailored blazers begged to be mixed with the vintage-inspired pieces and made sure these looks weren't slavish copies of an era past. And, in an inky palette of black and...more black, the looks were shot through with a dark, late-night glamour that made this version of the '60s more sexy and less naïve.