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• October 5, 2008
• Runway and Shows

Little Giants

Good things turn up on small runways—here were the six Paris
collections that made our headlines.

Maybe it was the tempestuous weather that put a slight damper on Paris Fashion Week. And even though the paparazzi was once again teeming and the store openings and anniversary parties still busting at the seams, the atmosphere of the longest running of the fashion weeks this year was a bit more somber and quiet than those of the past. Even so, the vibe seemed to work in favor of the smaller, less conspicuous shows, because even though the world's fashion capital has a reputation for broadcasting the biggest and most spectacular of the world's designers, it's also the touchstone for smaller talents with equally strong voices. Check out our list of Paris shows you might not have read about in the blogs and papers.

Isabel Marant, American Girl

Pure Americana was the theme for Isabel Marant's spring/summer '09 show, with a soundtrack that included Blondie, Joan Jett, Prince, and even Bow Wow. Patchwork prints were layered with denim jackets and bottom-bearing shorts, while the sexy, relaxed and stretch trousers that Marant is known for came in a mix of plaid prints. A wealth of crochet and lacy shirtdresses were also on display, and all of it was accessorized with a new set of signature "it" boots that the designer's intrepid followers will be donning en masse come spring: slouchy suede embellished with strands of silver chains. Stéphane Lancien and Karim Rahman were on hair and makeup duty, respectively, giving the models a clean, freshly scrubbed look with pretty, flowing locks. While the show wasn't a departure from anything she's done in the past, it doesn't matter, because Marant did what she does best: crafting gorgeous clothes that are meant to be worn, and make us feel amazing.

Dévastée, Paris Nevermore

The press release begins: "Your mind is black. Your eyelids are black, on the inside and on the outside. Your tongue, which is not oxygenated anymore, serves as a delicious feast for small insects that you would have found adorable if your attention was not focused on this fashion show." (Ji-Bêt for Dévastée. 2008)

And so set the tone for Dévastée's latest RTW presentation, set in the dungeon-like stone-walled ambiance of the Showcase club, hidden under the Pont Alexandre III. Only what followed wasn't macabre, or morbid, or even fit for a dungeon. Instead attendees got was a heavy dose of lovely, wearable clothes in a classic palette of black and creamy white, and appropriate for a perfect spring day. Soft crepe and hammered silk dresses were coupled with insignia-embellished jackets and simple satin belts, while black and white stripes served as the punctuating print of the collection. Referencing Mishima's Death in Midsummer, and Chloe Delaumes's Dans ma maison sous terre as the read inspirations behind the collection, the duo struck a balance between their now iconic fixation on mortality and creating beautiful clothes that every girl wants to wear.

Bruno Pieters, Springtime Structure

Bruno Pieters spring/summer collection was a relatively brief affair of 25 looks that included a subtle yet steady dose of shimmer and shine, and a color palette that was strictly black and white. Intensely strong, squared shoulders balanced upon architecturally structured silhouettes, with deep V-necks and color blocking adding to the final, geometric effect. Angles were peaked and pointed at various places, which brought a certain severity to the garments, but also a sense of unity to the overall collection. While the stark colors and sharp angles brought an almost masculine vibe to the overall theme, the final result was decidedly feminine and très sexy. Photos via style.com