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• March 3, 2008
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French Connection

Part two of our Paris Fashion Week highlights. By CBM

As Paris Fashion Week drew to a close, we were left wondering if anything eclipsed one particular trend: the push for more. More shows, more volume, more androgyny, more drama, more contradictions, and more paparazzi capturing it all. While some designers are saying No! (Viktor & Rolf anyone?), others are pleased to get with the program, presenting collections that continued to keep us on our toes and put Paris Fashion Week at the top of its game. Perhaps the most surprising moment came at the very end when Marc Jacobs decided to start his collection for Louis Vuitton on time, leaving several editors out in the cold. Regardless, there were plenty of other runway moments not to be missed—here's our second list of the Paris stars that shined.

Kris Van Assche—An Affair to Remember
Kris Van Assche proved that there is delicacy in strength at his fall '08 women's presentation, which took place at a small art gallery on la rue Montmorency. It was a modest affair (complete with elegant cocktails and macaroons) consisting of just 26 looks that balanced the relationship between masculine and feminine, which is not a huge surprise coming from the lead designer of Dior Homme. Gray woolen suits (masculine) made sense with the oversized red flowers that were interwoven into the models upswept hair (feminine). Floor-length silky dresses with long simple pleats (feminine) had pockets and were paired with structured blazers (masculine). In the end, it delivered something van Assche is becoming known for: depicting the urban goddess made modern. (Monday, February 25)

Haider Ackermann—Layered Sensibility
Haider Ackermann's fall collection was a series of mostly monochromatic looks that blended a diversity of fabrics and textures. A layer of chiffon was worn over a pair of scrunched up leather pants and bits of plume poked out from beneath outerwear. We love the fitted blazers that feature a more subdued version of the Margiela-esque strong shoulders, as well as the artful use of draping that the designer has made a staple. (Thursday, February 28)