Balmain—Bohemian Rocker Royalty
Buy your lottery ticket now and pray—seriously, pray—that you can cash in and snap up something…anything…from this collection. Christophe Decarnin was definitely on point this season, sticking to his signatures, but infusing a raw, renegade spirit into his designs. From the quintessential severe shoulders to some covetable military coats, we seriously wanted it all. The metallic minis were fitted to perfection, and T's in military green were worn and torn in all the right places (maybe they hired Terrence Koh to shoot some bullet holes à la Opening Ceremony?). Arguably, each piece requires putting your gym membership to good use, but we're thinking that in this case, the pain is worth the gain!
Nina Ricci—Third Times A Charm
First came Lars Nilsson then Olivier Theyskens…and now, Peter Copping, but we're hoping that Nina Ricci can hold on to this one, as it seems they've found a great match. Copping's first collection was full of pretty dresses in dusty pastels, sheer cropped tops, and some perfectly cut petit jackets. The result was an ultra feminine look, perfect for springtime layering. Some black evening numbers seemed a little harsh amid the girly brigade, but we see red-carpet potential regardless. For Copping, our fingers are crossed.
Rochas—1940s Housewife Glam
It could be argued that Marco Zanini's second collection for Rochas epitomizes the term "womenswear." Though the color scheme was utterly playful with its silky jewel tones, the clothes themselves were very much made for grown-ups with a keen eye for the classics. Form-fitting, below-the-knee dresses in aubergine and shades of umber, along with full on A-line patterned frocks set a serious tone next to Lolita-esque white mini-dresses and jumpers. There was some tug-of-war going on between girly innocence and mature glam that created a very sophisticated result—an undeniable 1940s whimsy, with very appropriate straw hats to top it all off.
Bruno Pieters—A Belgian Spring
There's something completely unpretentious about this young Belgian who turned out a really lovely spring collection: very sheer, minimalist, beautifully cut, perfectly tailored. Think nude mini-dresses, transparent white, high-waisted trousers and shorts, and some crystallized low-back frocks—definitely not the most wearable of wardrobes, but wantable nonetheless. Pieters has some serious craftsmanship going on as his work with sheer fabric leaves no room for mistakes, or, for that matter, love handles. No doubt, these duds are definitely for the daring.
Balenciaga—Biker-Chic In Space
What comes to mind when you hear Balenciaga? Bionic woman? Sci-fi? Size 0? Motorcyle boots? All of the above definitely apply to Nicolas Ghesquière's latest collection, which had a serious biker-chic-in-space vibe. Skinny leather trousers, heavy-duty vests, and some yummy fitted bombers all in a gray-scale with added bursts of primary colors. Vibrant indeed were some clubby multi-colored pants and silky striped tops. Deconstructed colorblock Ts with sheer inlays paired with pleated minis seemed a bit messy—but, hey, nobody's perfect—though Nicolas is arguably close.
Photos via Style.com