March 17, 2008
On Location
Heading off the beaten path in the city's Beyoglu district. By John Wogan
No visit to Istanbul would be complete without some time spent in Sultanahmet—the city's ancient heart, where you'll discover the soaring Hagia Sophia, the mystical Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace all primed to give your digital camera a serious workout.
While the city's major sites offer a heavy dose of its native history—ie: they can't be missed—experiencing Istanbul's more contemporary persona is revealed by heading directly to the bustling Beyoglu district, where cutting-edge boutiques and design shops line narrow, cobblestoned pedestrian-only side streets and main drag, Istiklal Caddesi. English may not be widely spoken here, but the warmth of the local shopkeepers and proprietors make the journey more than manageable, not to mention, ripe with offbeat surprises.
Shop.

• Antijen Yenicarsi Caddesi 7/b, +90 212 249 47 09
The first things you'll notice in this cool, quirky boutique are the horror movie-inspired mannequins with werewolf heads donning the shop's latest looks. Not something you see everyday, but it's perfectly emblematic of the slightly offbeat, totally unique items you'll find here. Shop owner Nïlufer Karaca designs the shop's in-house line, which includes plastic-covered Glen plaid coats and sturdy, brightly colored leather handbags. There's also a vast assortment of indie Euro-based denim brands for guys and girls by Produkt, Oscar Jacobson, and Jack & Jones, among others.

• Bis Wear Hayriye Caddesi 20/3, +90 212 244 77 35
Designer Reyhan Erturk's shop would be at home in any style-conscious 'hood, from Nolita to Hoxton. As it happens, this petite but chic space is located on the little cobble-stoned street of Hayriye Caddesi and features gorgeous embroidered sheath dresses, handcrafted jewelry, and knit accessories like gloves and scarves perfect to stash away for next season.
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