4 Ways To Customize Your Base Makeup

Finding the right foundation can feel like a monumental task. After all, most complexions aren't "one size fits all." You want something to soak up oil from your shiny T-zone, but on the other hand, the last thing you need is to make your flaky patches even drier. Then your period (the gift that keeps on giving) inevitably adds zits to the mix. When it comes to skin care, we've found work-arounds. We cocktail our products and, at this point, practically have a degree in multi-masking. So why, oh why, are we still settling for one allover foundation?

That’s right, the same way you multi-mask (pairing hydrating formulas for your cheeks with deep-cleansing charcoal scrubs for your clog-prone areas), you can also tailor and target your base coverage. By mixing and matching different foundations, you can choose to reveal — or conceal — only what you want to. Sound tricky? Don't worry, we've teamed up with Burt's Bees and celebrity makeup artist Daniel Chinchilla to break it all down for you. Foundation school is now in session.
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Illustrated by Alex Marino.
Your Concern: Hormonal Breakouts

Your Dream Combo:
Even the best anti-acne regimen can fall short when your hormone cycle gets involved. And when salicylic acid just isn’t cutting it, it can be all too easy to suffocate those annoying zits under the heaviest makeup in your drawer. Resist the urge. Instead, start with an allover layer of lightweight (feeling, not necessarily light coverage) foundation. Then, dab those blemishes with a green-tinted color corrector, like Essence Say No To Redness, to neutralize any redness. Finish with just enough concealer to cover any wayward hints of green. Don’t get too overzealous, advises Chinchilla. Tap and press the concealer on with a small brush or clean fingers. “Rubbing it in might irritate the breakout and cause it to get more red and inflamed.”
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Illustrated by Alex Marino.
Your Concern: Enlarged Pores

Your Dream Combo:
Shrinking: It's bad for your laundry but great for your pores. But you don't need hours with an airbrush to fake the effect. Start by spreading a thin layer of blurring primer over your entire face. “This will help soften the [appearance of] pores and give [your] makeup a smoother, more even finish,” says Chinchilla. Build on that silky base by applying a medium-coverage BB cream, like Burt’s Bees BB Cream, to your whole face for a light, luminous, I have really good genes finish. It's typically people with more oily skin types that experience enlarged pores, says Chinchilla. So make sure to set your base with translucent powder to eliminate excess shine. He recommends dusting Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish Powder around your nose, where the tell-tale signs of midday shine tend to appear first.
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Illustrated by Alex Marino.
Your Concern: An Oily T-Zone

Your Dream Combo:
“Most people think that [if] you have oily skin, there is no need to apply moisturizer,” says Chinchilla. But it's actually even more crucial, as dehydrated skin will produce excess oil to compensate. So after anchoring your base with a coat of moisturizer, choose two separate foundations: a hydrating option, like Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, for cheeks and a mattifying formula for your greasier spots. Finally, lock everything in place with a dusting of translucent powder. “Properly setting the foundation will help eliminate excess shine throughout the day,” says Chinchilla.
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Illustrated by Alex Marino.
Your Concern: Dry Patches

Your Dream Combo:
There can be many culprits behind dry patches — everything from seasonal shifts to your latest travel plans — so the key is to strategically draw the eye to your dewiest, most moisturized skin. Get the glow started by applying a layer of tinted moisturizer all over your face as a base. Then, kick the hydration into high gear by adding an ultra-moisturizing foundation just to your driest spots to soften and smooth those flaky patches. From there, it’s all slight of hand — or should we say slight of highlight? Use a creamy highlighter, like RMS Beauty Living Luminizer, to fake fresh-from-the-spa radiance. Concentrate the product on the tops of your cheekbones, across your browbone, on your Cupid’s bow, and down the center of your nose, where light naturally hits your face. Just make sure to steer clear of your moisture-challenged spots. “Shimmer will accentuate your dry patches and cause them to be more noticeable,” Chinchilla warns.
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