In the Mood

When asked to describe the broader theme of his new women's collection, Orthodox founder Eric Niccoli frequently uses one word: moody. "The collection is not always bright and cheery," he says. "The Orthodox girl is deeply in touch with her emotions and doesn't need to put on an act of well-being for others."

Started in 2005 as just a menswear label, Orthodox's first collection for women debuts this fall revealing inspirations such as androgyny, modernity, and Franz Kline, just the right combo for a girl who likes a little scowl. The collection—all in a mix of sooty blacks and charcoals with some splashes of saturated purples and reds—conveys a new approach to the typical contemporary street uniform, with a smattering of skinny pants, motorcycle jackets, high-waist pencil skirts, and perfect silk shift dresses.

But before dismissing the line as just another city girl's go-to garments, a closer look reveals a complexity that's as sensual as it is sincere. The black-to-charcoal fade effect on a bracelet-sleeve wool overcoat easily captures the somewhat morose vibe Niccoli is aiming for. The Franz Kline-influenced prints on a number of silk dresses brilliantly break up the monotony of solid colors that might otherwise overpower the collection. "We're looking to create a sexy, moody look that seamlessly combines elegance with what's casual," the designers says.

But even with his successful foray into womenswear, Niccoli insists on keeping his brand securely fastened to his menswear roots. Evident not only in the boyish cuts of a few shirts and jackets, but also in the color palette that seamlessly links the guys to the girls. "In the end, I wanted them to be brother and sister collections."

Orthodox gets deep with its debut women's collection.